Cooking Across 4 Generations

This was my eighth trip to Tokyo but I had never gotten to Kamakura before.

Mum and I caught the train to Shinagawa and transferred to the train for Kamakura. It took us about 50 minutes from Shinagawa, a distance of around 50 kilometres.

Kamakura is most well known for the Daibutsu, at Kotoku-in temple, but we discovered on our arrival that there are many more shrines and temples than we expected.

We went to the tourist information office at the station and they told us which bus to take. The buses have announcements in Japanese and English so we got off at the right stop which was across the road from the temple.

Lots of school children everywhere, they are the ones with the yellow caps on.

After passing through the Deva Gate you enter the gardens and grounds surrounding the Amida Buddha which sits on a foundation and then reaches 13.35 metres in height. Made of bronze the statue weighs in at 93 tons. More information on Kōtoku-in HERE.

Daibutsu

About Daibutsu

About Daibutsu

Close up of other elements around the main statue

Visitors are also able to enter the interior of the statue to see the construction. They also provide a good explanation of the methods used.

About the construction of Daibutsu

Inside the statue

Inside the statue

A few shots from around the grounds.

The back of Daibutsu

Around Kōtoku-in

Around Kōtoku-in

Gardens of Kōtoku-in

Around Kōtoku-in

We wandered back to Hase Dera, a short walk from Kōtoku-in. There were plenty of shops to pop in to as the footpaths were quite busy with groups of school children and other tourists.

Hase Dera was established around 736AD and is a temple honouring an 11 headed Kannon that was washed ashore near the temple. Check the link for more information on Hase Dera HERE.

I will say that the gardens here are spectacular and I hope to go back for flowering time of the wisteria and hydrangea. Other wise it is very lush and green.

A cave system is home to Beten-do Hall and Benten-Kutsu cave with statues of Benzaiten and children carved from the rock walls. Sadly the only photo I have inside the cave is slightly blurry.

Entrance to Benten-Do Hall and Benten-Kutsu Cave

Inside the cave

Some shots of the gardens and ponds.

Gardens at Hase Dera

Gardens at Hase Dera

Gardens at Hase Dera

Gardens at Hase Dera

Gardens at Hase Dera

Jizo-Do Hall is where Fukuju Jizo is enshrined. The hall is surrounded by thousands of jizo there to comfort the souls of unborn children. Often these will be dressed with knitted or fabric bibs.

Jizo outside Jizo-Do Hall

Jizo at Hase Dera

Jizo outside Jizo-Do Hall

Jizo outside Jizo-Do Hall

Kannon-Do Hall is the home of the Kannon statue. Attached is Amida-Do Hall and the Museum.

Amida-Do Hall, Hase Dera

Kannon-Do Hall

Buddha’s footprints?

On one side of Kannon-Do is the Shoro Belfry, home to a massive bronze bell. On the other side is the Kyozo, holding the sutra archive.

Shoro Belfry

Kyozo

Rinzo inside the Kyozo Sutra Archive

The upper part of Hase Dera offers fabulous views over Kamakura, out to the ocean.

Wisteria Arbor

View over Kamakura

View over Kamakura

View over Kamakura

We continued our walk back to Kamakura station stopping in at many handcraft shops. I was always calculating how much room was left in my suitcase though. We did stumble across a second hand shop where I picked up an obi. To my eye it looks like autumn colours, but still trying to work out if it is bamboo or maple.

We arrived at the station and as we were a bit warm from our walk had a delicious icecream served in a crepe rolled in to a cone shape.

Arriving back at Shimbashi I had to show Mum the big Tanuki near the station. Ended up with some fun shots.Now if you don’t know about Tanuki, he is a mythical Japanese racoon dog. Tanuki is also a real animal as well.

Thanks for dropping by!

Next post will be our day with a Tokyo Free Guide host.

In September we booked a day trip for while we were in Tokyo. I had done the same trip to Mt Fuji, Hakone and Mt Komagatake on my first trip to Japan back in 2008. That time it was early spring and our coach was only able to make it to the second station. This time we woke to an autumn day withsparkling blue skies and a probability of cloud in the afternoon.

Ok, so I woke really early and was able to see a spectacular sunrise as we forgot to close the blinds.

We booked a transfer to the bus depot and waited patiently for our coach and guide, Marie.

Marie was a fun guide giving us lots of interesting facts about where we were going, Japanese customs, history, and funny anecdotes. Once we were out of the city we got our first glimpses of Majestic Mt Fuji, which the night before had been dusted by the first snowfalls of the season. Given that the sky was so clear, the snow gleamed on the peak.

Some facts on Mt Fuji, height is  3,776.24 m (12,389 ft), known for its perfectly symmetrical cone, it is100km(60miles) from Tokyo. It is classified as an active low risk volcano with the last eruption in December 1707 and ending in January 1708. Mt Fuji lies within the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park Famed Ukiyo-e artists Hokusai and Utagawa Hiroshige, among others have featured Mt Fuji in their works.

As we got closer and the altitude got higher we were able to see more of the autumn colour changes in the trees. This was especially delightful when we got to Mt Fuji 5th station(2,300m/7,550ft above sea level) and could look out over the vista.

Of course we had to get a selfie. Excuse the sunglasses but it was very bright.

The fifth station has restaurants, souvenir shops and the highest post office in Japan, where you can buy stamps made especially for Mt Fuji.

Some clouds soon turned up to provide some interest to photos.

Then it was back on the coach to head down to Kawaguchiko for lunch. Nestled on the shore of Lake Kawaguchi this town is popular with people on weekend trips to the Fuji Five Lakes region.

Lunch was at a tourist restaurant overlooking the lake and featured a noodle dish that is native to the Yamanashi region, Hoto noodles. They are like an udon noodle but made using a dumpling style dough, and served in a miso soup, very delicious and warming on a cool day. Lunch also included crumbed fish, sashimi, a mussel dish, braised lotus root, pickles and rice.

After lunch we headed on to Hakone for our cruise on Lake Ashi. A picturesque drive that gives you many glimpses of Mt Fuji, before you dip in to the ancient caldera that provides the setting for Lake Ashi.

Hakone is famous for hot springs and has many resorts for weekenders from Tokyo. By the time we reached Lake Ashi the weather had changed. The temperature had dropped and the clouds really rolled in.

We arrived at the base of Mt Komagatake where we were to take a ropeway gondola up to the top. The dock is quite pretty and there is an aquarium and swan boats to hire.

Spectacular scenery from the gondola.

When we arrived at the top the spectacular view was lost in the clouds. Normally you can see Mt Fuji and out to the Pacific Ocean but not this day. So Mum and I hopped on the next gondola down and went shopping in the souvenir shops.

Then it was back to Odawara for our return to Tokyo via Shinkansen. A great way to end our day trip to Mt Fuji, Hakone and Mt Komagatake.

Thanks for dropping by! Next post our train trip to Kamakura.

Tuesday morning saw us wake up to partly cloudy skies. Mum had gotten in to the swing of the Japanese style breakfast but neither of us were game for the natto.

We hopped the train to Harajuku, where there seemed to be less Harajuku girls than normal, and walked in to Tokyo’s oasis of calm.. Meiji-jingu always feels miles away from the hustle and bustle of the rest of the city. Walking through the park to the temple is like taking a walk in a forest, albeit a forest with loads of tourists.

Just before we were to make our turn off we walked past the sake and Burgundies used for the consecration of Meiji Jingu.

There was some restoration work being done to the large inner torii and they were also setting up for the Autumn festival, so we had to go on a slight detour and approach from the side. From  the signage we read they were actually replacing the timbers. In the background you can see the marquees set up for the festival, some of the chrysanthemums were already being placed. Meiji Jingu is a great spot to see the chrysanthemum displays in autumn.

We followed the detour signs and entered the shrine complex from the east side, stopping first at the Temizuya to perform the purification ritual. They are doing a lot of conservation work and you can see in the background, on the right, the new section of copper roof. People were able to buy a piece of new copper, write a prayer/wish on it and then this would be used during the reroofing, the cost was ¥3000 per panel.

We then walked in to the main shrine complex and saw….another wedding, our fourth for the trip.

We wandered around the complex, said a prayer. Mine is always the same prayer, so far it has come true each year. Here are some shots from in the shrine area.

We than walked back to Shibuya and along the way passed an amazing mix of architectural styles.

We were in desperate need of coffee, so I figured the best place to have one would be Starbucks at Scramble Crossing so we could watch the action. Didn’t seem as busy as some other days I have been there.

After our caffeine hit it was across to the station to see the memorial for Hachiko. Finally found it this visit. I am sure you are familiar with the story of Hachi, the loyal dog who waited for his master at the station every day. I think there are two films about him one Japanese and one with Richard Gere.

Then we braved the train system to catch a train line I have not taken before, Chuo Line from Shinjuku to Iichigaya. Easy!! I love Tokyo trains!!!

From Iichigaya we walked to Yasukuni-Jinja. Quite a controversial shrine as it commemorates the Japanese war dead, and politicians are always getting in trouble for visiting it. While I was participating in the KYLC Kokoda Trek in August, I realised there were not a lot of memorials for the Japanese who fought there.  I had this feeling that I should go and visit Yasukuni and pay respects. Having watched a documentary and seeing that both lots of soldiers ended up becoming friends some time after the war and even having get togethers, I felt it was something I needed to do.

We entered from the Minami-Mon (south gate) and found the site of the  old Renpeikan for one of the three most famous Kendo schools in Japan.

Entrance to Yasukuni -Jinja

Entrance gate to Yasukuni -Jinja

Signage at the South gate

Signage at the South gate

Site of Renpeikan

We then moved on to the Haiden (Main Hall) where I payed respects to the fallen. Obviously the chrysanthemum symbol on the curtain reflects that this shrine has Imperial connections. Behind the Haiden are the Honden (the main Sanctuary where the divinities reside) and behind that, the Reijibon Hoanden which is the Respository For The Symbolic Registry Of The Deities (lists of the names of deities/fallen soldiers) This list contains the names of nearly two and a half million who have died in action and then been deified.

We then wandered around the beautiful old gardens. Many very old trees often with supports, a Shinchi Teien (sacred Pond garden) with huge koi, tea houses sumo ring and much more.

Sumo Statue near the sumo field

Around the grounds of Yasukuni-Jinja

Around the grounds of Yasukuni-Jinja

Around the grounds of Yasukuni-Jinja

After walking the grounds we decided to go in to the Yashukan museum. Below are some of the memorials found outside the museum. The water bottles are not litter they are offerings, there was also some food around too. There are also memorials for animals that have been used in times of war, dogs, horses and carrier pigeons.

Memorial to Tokko (kamikaze) pilots

Memorial for war widows and children

Memorial for patrol boat crews

We were only able to take photos in the general exhibition area, but the rest of the museum was very interesting.

A wing of the Yashukan museum

Thai Burma railroad exhibit

Thai Burma railroad exhibit

It’s a Mitsi! Mitsubishi A6M Zero

It’s a Mitsi! Mitsubishi A6M Zero

I will go again as it turns out I missed one of the display areas and we had to rush through the Second World War displays as the museum was closing.

As we walked out a very light drizzle had started and dusk was starting to set in.

After another busy day it was back to the hotel via a noodle restaurant.

Thanks for dropping by! Next post will be our trip to Fuji-san and Hakone.

Our second day in Tokyo I took Mum for a special treat. I have never been to a Tea Ceremony so decided to treat Mum and myself to one. I had booked us in at Toko-an at the Imperial Hotel in Hibiya on the other side of the railway line from Ginza.

Toko-an is located on the fourth floor of the Imperial Hotel and we were not expecting to find the setting for the tea ceremony to be a replication of a traditional tea house. It was a very pleasant surprise. A huge bank of windows looked out to a lush garden as you walked along the stone pathway to the tea room.

After taking off our shoes we entered through the nijiriguchi( a small door that you need to crouch down to get through) and then into tatami floored room(4 1/2 tatami mats) and took our place seiza style on the floor.

To our right was the Tokonoma(scroll alcove) which featured a seasonal scroll and small arrangement of flowers.

Across from us in was the sadoguchi which allowed the host access to the room and along from that the Furo(brazier) on which was placed the Kama in which the water is heated. A small table was to the side and on top were the Futa-oki to hold the kama lid, the Hishaku (water ladle) and the Natsume(lacquered tea caddy). Underneath was the Mizubashi holding cold water.

While the tea was being prepared we were given wagashi, a sweet treat filled with red bean paste. We ate half befor eht tea was prepared and then watched while one of our two servers performed the ceremony and the other lady explained the process.

I was quite prepared for the tea to be bitter but was pleasantly surprised to find it wasn’t. Can’t believe everything you read!  The tea served to us was Ujicha from Kyoto and does not have the bitterness of some other types of matcha.

Here we are enjoying our tea,not very elegantly seated. My cup had a depiction of pine branches and Mum’s had fans in autumn colours.

Then it was back out in to the chill morning and over to Asakusa and Kappabashi Dori. After leaving the station we happened to stumble upon our second wedding of the trip. The first one was at Hama-rikyu Onshi Teien.

We only had a quick look in Asakusa as I knew we would be back on Friday with our guide so we pretty much headed straight to Kitchen Town.

We managed to find one of the Kappa statues. Google Kappa to find out more.

Nearly a kilometre of shops all dedicated to different aspects of restaurant and hospitality trades. I have posted on Kappabashi Dori on previous trips so will just say I bought A LOT. Then back to Shimbashi via Tawaramachi Station which was another first for me as I have previously just gone back to Asakusa station.

Stay tuned for the next adventures where we catch our third wedding!!

Earlier in the year I was planning to go to Tokyo by myself. I knew Mum had a bit of annual leave accrued so decided to see if she would like to tag along, which she did. I got all our bookings arranged and then just had to count down to the departure date.

As I wanted to fly in to Narita we had to have a stop over in Brisbane on the way. By the time we got from the domestic terminal to the international and went through customs, we only had about 30 minutes before our gate opened. The flight was uneventful andmanaged to grab a little sleep as well as watch the latest Star Trek and Independence Day movies.

We caught the train from the airport to Shimbashi and then walked to Hotel Villa Fontaine in Shiodome.

After a good night sleep we went down for breakfast. Hotel Villa Fontaine serves a Japanese style breakfast andas it was quite busy I grabbed a table while Mum went for food first. I think she was quite lost with what to have until I came back with my tray. On offer was, meat balls(delicious) Tamagoyaki, pastries, rice, pickles, natto(nope, still haven’t tried it), 3 soups (including miso), cereals and fruit.

Our first day was clear blue skies and quite warm so a stroll through a park was first on our list. Hama-rikyu Onshi Teien was the grounds of a former Shoguns Palace. From the Meiji Restoration in 1868 it was a Detached Palace for the Imperial family until 1946 when it was taken over by the government of Tokyo and opened to the public.

There is a great deal of history within the garden walls and great care is taken in preserving the gardens. Two kamoba(duck hunting sites) are preserved and now make great spots for taking photos of wildlife with in the park. In the trenches leading to the kamoba we saw crabs and fish enjoying the tidal waters while ducks bobbed around on the outer lake.

There are three restored tea houses in the garden, two on the lake shore and one on an island in the middle of the lake accessed by three bridges.

We wandered around past the old wisterias trained over pergolas, along the river bank, past the fields that are planted to different varieties each season, we saw the last of the cosmos, past the Ume (plum) grove and around to the majestic 300 year old pine tree.

One of the most amazing trees in the garden is the 300 year old pine tree planted by the 6th Shogun Ienobu. The tree is majestically sprawls over its patch and due to its age many of the branches have supports to help them.

Then it was a short walk over to Ginza to have a wander through the shops and the fascinating back lanes.

Nissan caught our eyes with some concept cars they had on display. I put the Gripz on my Santa list and Mum put the IDS on hers.

After a good look around we headed back to Shiodome for dinner and a good night sleep.

Stay tuned for more of our busy week in Tokyo!