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Cooking Across 4 Generations

Using recipes collected from 4 generations of one family

Month

August 2013

Le Grand Colbert, Paris

One of our most watched movies is ‘Something’s Got To Give’ starring Jack Nicholson and Diane Keaton. One of our dreams while visiting Paris was to dine at the restaurant Le Grand Colbert which is shown towards the end of the movie.

After settling in to our room at Hotel Banke on Rue Lafayette, we went for the first of many looooonnngggg Parisian walks. In effect we became ‘flaneurs’, exploring the boulevards and rues of central Paris. Our first outing saw us walk to the Musee du Louvre, les Jardin des Tuileries, Place de la Concorde, across Pont de la Concorde to the Rive Gauche, along Quai d’Orsay to Pont Alexandre III, then up Avenue Winston Churchill past the Grand and Petit Palais, along the Champs Elysees where we saw them setting up all the stands for the Fete National parade. From there we walked back to Place de la Concorde, up rue Royal to Place de la Madeleine, up rue des Capucines, down Boulevarde des Capucines to Place Vendome. Wow getting exhausted writing it all down. After a walk around Place Vendome we went back up rue de la Paix to the Palais Garnier and then back to the hotel.

After all that walking we needed a break to think about where to eat dinner. Looking at the map I discovered that Le Grand Colbert was in fact not far from our hotel. In the end we ended up dining at Le Grand Colbert 4 times during our trip. As it turns out we were not the only ones who were repeat diners, apparently another Aussie couple had done the same.

On our first walk to Le Grand Colbert we happened to just turn our head and were struck by the following amazing view of  Basilique du Sacre Couer. It seemed every place you looked there was something to take you breath away.

Basilique du Sacre Couer
Basilique du Sacre Couer

Anyway enough of the pretty view, on to dinner.

Exterior Le Grand Colbert
Exterior Le Grand Colbert

Located on Rue Vivienne, Le Grand Colbert is a classic Parisian Brasserie. Mosaic floors, plaster mouldings, brass light fittings, etched glass, leather banquettes, all the traditional brasserie decor elements you could ask for. Service staff were amazingly helpful and I didn’t have to use my really bad French as they all spoke very good English.

Yours truly outside Le Grand Colbert
Yours truly outside Le Grand Colbert

As you can see from the picture they are quite proud of the association with the movie ’Something’s Got To Give”. People have been known to request the exact seat where Jack and Dianne sat.

The bar Le Grand Colbert
The bar Le Grand Colbert
Interior Le Grand Colbert
Interior Le Grand Colbert
Interior Le Grand Colbert
Interior Le Grand Colbert

With a menu full of classic brasserie fare, I decided on the half chicken and Mr. CA4G had the Steak Frites with sauce béarnaise. Mr. CA4G is such a lovely man he said my bearnaise is better, should I believe him?

Steak frites
Steak frites
Half chicken
Half chicken

The wine list, while not large, has a very good selection with wines by the glass, half carafe, and bottle. On our first night we tried Delice De Prieure, a Saint- Emilion grand cru classe. Normally we don’t like merlot, but this 100% merlot was easy drinking and fantastic flavour. So good in fact we had it each time we ate at Le Grand Colbert. Before you order a bowl of crisps and olives is bought to your table.

IMG_1340

Another visit we had the cheese plate after our meal.

Cheese plate
Cheese plate
One of our favourite butters in the world Beurre d'Isigny
One of our favourite butters in the world Beurre d’Isigny

On our other dinners Mr. CA4G kept to the steak frites with béarnaise while I tried the lamb cutlets with ratatouille, melon with pata negra(prosciutto) and the French classic,  Blanquette de veau was my final dinner in Paris.

Blanquette de Veau,
Blanquette de Veau,

Desserts were amazing if huge. I had two profiteroles with hot chocolate and an ice-cream filling, Mr. CA4G had a Mont Blanc that had chestnut ice-cream, chocolate sauce, cream, almond flakes. He loved it.

Mont Blanc
Mont Blanc
Profiteroles with chocolate sauce, ice cream filling
Profiteroles with chocolate sauce, ice cream filling

One thing we love about visiting European cities in summer is the sun doesn’t go down until 10pm, allowing for a post dinner stroll. Not far from Le Grand Colbert is Le Palais Royale and then Le Louvre, nothing like a bit of grand architecture after dinner.

So have you been to a restaurant featured in a movie? Was it what you expected? Le Grand Colbert lived up to ours, and should we happen to be in Paris again in the future, we will be heading back for more great food at Le Grand Colbert.

Dinner By Heston Blumenthal, Mandarin Oriental, London

After working out that a trip to The Fat Duck in Bray was not feasible for our one week stay in London, we decided that Heston Blumenthal’s other restaurant, Dinner By Heston, would be a lot easier to get to. Thankfully we booked well in advance (February) and were able to get a reservation. Dinner By Heston is located in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Knightsbridge.

Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Knightsbridge, London
Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Knightsbridge, London

On our visit to Dinner By Heston, the day was spectacular, sun shining, bright blue skies. Not what you expect for a British summer’s day. Our walk to Knightsbridge was very pleasant indeed.

The restaurant is located through the lobby toward the Hyde Park side of the hotel building. Large expanses of glass let in light and afford a great view of Hyde Park.

Reception for Dinner by Heston
Reception for Dinner by Heston

Custom-made porcelain light fixtures modelled on antique jelly moulds are a quirky touch to the walls, vaulted ceilings enhance the height of the rooms and lots of large mirrors, wood, leather and ivory paint is used for walls and furnishings. Floor to ceiling glass separates the diners from the kitchen where the feature is the pulley system used to rotate the spit. Unfortunately I forgot to stop and take a photo of the kitchen.

Interior Dinner By Heston
Interior Dinner By Heston

Dinner By Heston has dishes inspired from historic British gastronomy. Each dish has a date indicating the period in time the original recipe was formulated.

Menus at Dinner by Heston
Menus at Dinner by Heston

Mr. CA4G got a little confused and thought we had been given the dinner menu instead of the lunch menu, until I reminded him that the restaurant was named Dinner. We opted for the 3 course set lunch menu with matching wines (all up £147 approx AUD$256). As there were two choices per course it was just a matter of deciding which of us wanted what more than the other.

Yours truly
Yours truly

Mr CA4G loves snails so he opted for the dressed snails(c.1884), parsley, beetroot, salty fingers and red wine sauce. This was matched with a  Schiopetto, 2010 Pinot Grigio from Collio in Italy.

Dressed snails
Dressed snails

I am not in to snails( they should only be trod on when found in the garden). I chose the Salmagundy (c.1720), smoked tomato, celery, buckler sorrel and lovage. This was matched with Weingut Loimer, 2012 Gruner Veltliner ‘Lois’ from Kamptal in Austria. Amazingly tasty heirloom tomatoes enhanced with a light touch of smoke, a lovely light summer dish.

Salamagundy
Salamagundy

For mains Mr. CA4G ordered something he hasn’t tried before, roasted ray wing & admirals sauce (c. 1826), sea aster, shallots, peas, brown butter and capers. This was matched with Ata Rangi, 2012 Sauvignon Blanc, Martinborough, New Zealand. Sea aster is a plant that grows along the coast line and has edible leaves.

Roasted Ray Wing
Roasted Ray Wing

I opted for roast quail (c.1590) with cabbage, onion and smoked chestnut. This was delicious. The quail was taken of the bone for plating and sat high on the mound of cabbage, onion and chestnut. This was matched with a Casale Dello Sparviero, 2009 Riserva Chianti Classico from Tuscany in Italy.

Roasted quail
Roasted quail

Desserts saw us have a little tiff over who got the Millionaire Tart (c. 1730), crystallised chocolate, with vanilla icecream (so smooth!!). This was served with Domaine de la Tour Vieille, NV Banyuls Reserve from Roussillon in France. The tart was a nice crumbly base with a rich chocolate topping with little ‘gold’ nuggets on top. Very rich and I want more!!

Millionaire Tart
Millionaire Tart

Mr. CA4G lost the battle of the millionaire tart and ordered the Shrewsbury Gooseberry Tansy tart, gooseberry, rose and caraway. This was matched with La Spinetta, 2012 Moscato d’Asti Bricco Quaglia fro Piedmont in Italy. This tart was elegant, light and lovely. The crust from caramelisation was just right and the moscato was the perfect wine to go with such a light dessert.

Shrewsbury Gooseberry  Tansy Tart
Shrewsbury Gooseberry Tansy Tart

A post dessert was also bought out. It usually comes with the coffee but we don’t generally order coffee after a meal, so it came out any way. A little glass cup of dark chocolate ganash with a crisp wafer. Thank goodness we walked back to our hotel.

Post dessert chocolate
Post dessert chocolate

All in all a lovely lunch to go with a perfect English summer day.

I have noticed that Heston has a new book coming out that is based on historic recipes. Might have to put it on the Christmas list.

Truffle Roast Chicken

One final item I prepared using the fresh truffles recently was a roast chicken with truffles. This was another thing I have read about and wanted to do try for some time.

I am not going to specify a size for the chicken, as we are a two person household I only buy a smaller size 12 chicken. This recipe needs to be started the day before you want to cook it, this allows for the truffle to infuse the meat of the chicken.

1 free range organic chicken

20 gr Truffles, sliced (If using a larger bird, use more truffle)

60 g Butter, softened to room temperature

Salt and pepper

Wash your chicken inside and out. Dry with paper towel.

Gently separate the skin of the chicken from the breast meat.

Lay the slices of truffle over the exposed meat.

Form the butter in to two oval shaped pieces and lay on top of the truffles. (Alternatively you can finely grate the truffle into the softened butter and mix together before forming it to place on the chicken.)

Gently settle the skin of the chicken back over the butter/truffle. Truss your chicken with butchers twine.

Place in to baking dish and then cover securely with cling film and leave in fridge over night.

Before
Before

Remove chicken from oven ½ an hour before you want to start cooking it.

Preheat oven to 220C.

Remove the cling wrap and season the chicken with the salt and pepper. Drizzle with a little olive oil, place in oven and cook according to the size of chicken you have used, or until the juices run clear when tested.

After, love how the truffle is visible through the skin
After, love how the truffle is visible through the skin

Serve with your favourite vegetables and some gravy.

You could just use chicken breasts that have the skin on and place the butter under the skin the same way as the whole chicken. Just a quick seal in a fry pan before finishing in the oven would be a good idea.

Mr CA4G takes his own lunch to work so this week he had some rather decadent truffled chicken sandwiches.

Truffle Season

I bring you a service interruption to my recent travel posts. Having had all manner of exotic ingredients during our holiday (think foie gras, exotic mushrooms, bamboo clams, truffles) I was happy to receive an email from Bonnes Truffes letting me know that fresh Australian truffles were in season. I placed an order and eagerly awaited delivery of what Brillat Savarin called ‘diamonds of the kitchen’.

Black Truffle from Bonnes Truffes Southern Highlands NSW
Black Truffle from Bonnes Truffes Southern Highlands NSW
Another angle of the truffle
Another angle of the truffle

Not having encountered a fresh truffle before Mr. CA4G and I realised quite quickly that they are rather pungent. Upon opening the package they were in, Mr. CA4G quickly asked what the stench was, thinking there was something off in the fridge. We had a bit of a laugh.

I also got to use the $60 truffle slicer that I bought two years ago. I knew I would have a use for it one day.

Truffle slicer - GEFU brand
My GEFU truffle slicer

My first plan for using them was scrambled eggs. To do this I needed an airtight container and some eggs. The eggs are placed in the container with the truffle for at least 24 hours. I would recommend a little longer, maybe two or three days. Then you make your scrambled eggs as normal.

Eggs with the truffle in their airtight jar
Eggs with the truffle in their airtight jar

Personally I use about 3 tablespoons of cream for 5 eggs, a little salt and pepper, about 20 grams of butter melted in the pan. Whisk the cream and eggs and then in to the pan and gently stirred with a silicone scraper until they are cooked through.

Cream
Cream
Eggs and cream ready to go
Eggs and cream ready to go
Butter ready to melt
Butter ready to melt
Just about ready
Just about ready

On to some toast and then I finely sliced some truffles over the top.

Truffle meets slicer
Truffle meets slicer
Ready to eat
Ready to eat

Delicious! So good in fact we had it two days in a row.

I also used the truffles for lunch with fresh pasta, a little onion and pancetta sautéed in olive oil, butter and lots of parmesan. I also shaved more truffle over the top. Not the healthiest option but certainly very tasty.

Home made pasta, Pancetta, parmesan and truffle
Home made pasta, Pancetta, parmesan and truffle

A delicious weekend all round.

I have a small piece left some eggs in with it for scrambled eggs on the weekend and another lot of the pasta. Can’t wait!

Union Club, Soho, London

Our second night in London saw us meet friends at a gallery opening for Patrick Morgan in Soho. Great exhibition of many varied works by the artist. The exhibition was held at The House of St. Barnabas Club, a not for profit club that has a charity wing providing hospitality employment opportunities for homeless people.

Interior of House of St. Barnabas
Interior of House of St. Barnabas

After the exhibition our group went for a quick walk down Greek Street to The Union Club. The Union Club is a private members club located in a 270 year old Georgian townhouse. The decor is rich and cosy, blending antique and modern with style and wit to create an effect that is both contemporary and bohemian

Interior The Union Club
Interior The Union Club
Interior The Union Club
Interior The Union Club

The dining room combines wood panelling, crystal chandeliers, open fireplaces and a superb eclectic art collection to create an ambience that is a nice change from most modern minimalist restaurants. The rich glossy red walls give an old world feel.

The menu features organic and sustainably sourced products. There is a great range of old favourites and some modern combinations. Bread is baked daily in house and sometimes they need to do a second lot. Mr. CA4G and I shared an entree of seared scallops, peas and crispy prosciutto.

Scallops, peas and crispy proscuitto
Scallops, peas and crispy proscuitto

I decided to have more peas, this time in the form of a pea and ricotta crespelline with girolles. Got to love having mushrooms that are hard to get in Australia.

Crespelline of peas and ricotta
Crespelline of peas and ricotta

Mr. CA4G loves a burger (seemed to be the most popular dish with the group). The Union burger came with homemade ketchup and rustic fries.

The Union Burger
The Union Burger

Fries and beans were ordered for the whole table. The fries were nice fat hand cut ones served with a homemade mayo.

Beans and chips
Beans and chips

 

Desserts were tempting but we decided to pass and just have a coffee.

Should a member of The Union Club invite you to dinner, jump at the chance to go. There is nothing like dining in an eclectic room.

Locanda Locatelli

Just a quick post without many photos, as photography inside the restaurant is banned. We headed over to the Hyatt Regency for Lunch at Locanda Locatelli as we both love pasta and enjoyed watching Giorgio Locatelli on TV.

Locanda Locatelli is part of the Hyatt Regency Churchill, located at 30 Portman Place, Seymour Street, London, yet feels separate from the hotel. A window box of wild flowers is a softening touch to the stark white and grey exterior.

Exterior Locanda Locatelli
Exterior Locanda Locatelli

The interior was designed by David Collins in light woods and neutral tones, offering up a relaxing atmosphere. The clientele at lunch is very much of the business brigade, but don’t let that put you off.   We did walk past at night and it looked lovely with the soft lighting.

Menu Locanda Locatelli
Menu Locanda Locatelli

The menu is a great selection of Italian delights. After perusing the menu, Mr. CA4G and I both went for pasta. As Mr. CA4G loves his lobster he couldn’t resist, Linguine all’astice (Linguine with lobster, tomato, garlic and chilli), I have wanted to try ‘nduja sausage for a while so my choice was Strozzapreti al pomodoro, `nduja, olive nere e ricotta (Homemade pasta with tomato, spicy salami, black olives, buffalo ricotta), nice and spicy!! I will be keeping an eye out for ‘nduja next time I trek over to the delis in Five Dock.

We did have a quick glance at the dessert menu and were very tempted by the cheese plate but decided to give our bellies a bit of a break.

Me outside Locanda Locatelli
Me outside Locanda Locatelli

We really enjoyed our lunch at Locanda Locatelli and were able to tick off another ‘have to visit’ restaurant. We only have a couple of hundred more to get through LOL.

Hutong, Hong Kong

Landing in Hong Kong on a Friday afternoon found us checking in to our hotel, having a quick siesta and then heading out to stretch our legs and find somewhere for dinner. We settled on a restaurant with a view, Hutong, located on the 28th floor of 1 Peking Building, just behind Heritage 1881.

The view from the second row
The view from the second row

Since our last visit three years ago Hutong has had a change of theme, but ever so slightly. The new theme is ‘old Beijing’. Gone are the bird cages and in are little rickshaw models, along with a large rickshaw at the entrance. The dark woods and antique architectural details that we love are all still there. The lighting is still low, but this allows for greater enjoyment of the nightly light display across the harbour.

Anyone for a ride?
Anyone for a ride?

The menu has changed as well, which is to be expected. For entrees we ordered chili spiced bamboo clams(steeped in Chinese rose wine and chili sauce)), seared scallops topped with pomelo segments.

Chili spiced bamboo clams (steeped in Chinese rose wine and chili sauce)
Chili spiced bamboo clams (steeped in Chinese rose wine and chili sauce)
Scallops with pomelo segments
Scallops with pomelo segments

We then chose two mains that were quite similar in that they both came with pancakes. Double Happiness (roasted suckling pig with Pancakes) and crispy boneless duck. Both were served with traditional pancakes and accompaniments. You may notice in coming posts that we have a thing for duck. No wine this time around, we decided to go with Chinese tea.

Double happiness
Double happiness
Deboned crispy skin duck
Deboned crispy skin duck

For the first time we also went for Chinese traditional desserts and selected Double Decker Dessert Box.  Attractively served in a double bamboo steamer, the box contained: mango glutinous rice rolls coated with shredded coconut, pumpkin pudding with sticky rice, osmanthus flavored jelly with white fungus.   The desserts were quite different to anything we have had before. The pumpkin pudding was nice with the flecks of sticky rice through it, the osmanthus jelly was interesting, but our favourite was the mango pudding.

Double decker dessert box
Double decker dessert box

During a our dinner we had not only the light show from across the harbour but a huge storm came through as well. While most would be put off by that, the rain gave another dimension by hazing out the lights and giving a soft ethereal look to the view. The lasers lights off some of the buildings became a really spectacular sight through the rain.

It's raining, it's pouring, but nobody was snoring with this view
It’s raining, it’s pouring, but nobody was snoring with this view

We are looking forward to visiting Hutong again next time we are in Hong Kong. If you go, book well ahead and request a window seat, as long as you don’t get vertigo LOL.

Brasserie Ruhlmann, Manhattan

 

 

Arriving in New York this year it was, thankfully, not quite as hot as when we went last year. I was able to get my bag rather quickly of the carrousel and straight out to the cabs, where, unexpectedly there was a very short queue. 30 minutes later I arrived at the Waldorf Astoria, met Mr. CA4G, freshened up and then we hit the sidewalks. Always great to walk around a city after 20 hours in a plane.

IMG_1160

 

We were decidedly peckish so really needed to find some where to eat. Our first choice, a restaurant that we went to last year in Villard Mansion, was sadly closed due to renovations to the building.

 

Walking through the Rockefeller Centre we discovered Brasserie Ruhlmann. Named after Émile-Jacques Ruhlmann a legendary French designer, whose concepts and craftsmanship epitomize the glamour and style of the French Art Deco era, Brasserie Ruhlmann pays homage to this early 20th-century icon and the art-and-intellectualism era of the Parisian brasserie.

Dinner-with-Sushi

Headed by respected chef Laurent Tourondel, Brasserie Ruhlmann serves modern versions of dishes that are reminiscent of his French homeland.

We settled on burgers for our dinner. For Mr. CA4G a Black Angus burger topped with gruyere cheese and for myself a lobster and shrimp roll seasoned with a curry mayo. Served simply on wooden boards with paper lined tin cups to hold the chips. Of course a good burger requires a glass of Moet.

IMG_1167

 

Such a joy to be able to sit outside for dinner, especially when you have a lingering sunset and twilight. The first of many great meals during our 4 week trip around the world. Bon Apetite!

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