One restaurant I do enjoy going to is TY Bis in Park Hotel Shiodome.
French trained Japanese chef Tateru Yoshino is behind the wonderful food that comes out of the kitchen.
The menu is very French and very delicious. There are two set course options as well as a la carte. I decided on the smaller of the set courses. I love how the set menus you actually get to pick which dishes you would like rather than preselected by the chef.
After settling in I decided a glass of Champagne was a good decision(when isn’t it?) and selected a glass of Deutz Champagne.
Amuse Bouche was a pair of light cheese puffs.
Cheese puffs for an use bouche
Bread was freshly made baguette and my second piece was pain de compagne. Both delicious.
Bread trolley
Weingut Heymann and Lowenstein reisling from Mosel went well with my soup and entree, as it was a drier style of Riesling.
The appetiser was a fluffy beetroot foam over a set bouillon and caramelised onion.
Beetroot foam, Caramelised onion, gelled bouillon
Soup was a creamy mushroom that was light but full of flavour, several croutons hidden beneath the froth on top gave a nice crunch.
Cream of mushroom soup
Entree was pate en croute – pork and chicken meat with a bit of foil gras in the mix, served with cornichons and a tiny salad.
Pate en croute
Main I chose pork. This was served as a large croquette, with white asparagus, cabbage and morels. This was accompanied by Baron Phillippe de Rothschild Cabernet Sauvignon from the Pays D’Oc.
Pork, white asparagus, Morels and cabbage
Dessert was chocolate Mille feuille, chocolate ganache, chocolate ice cream, chocolate plaque
Chocolate Mille Feuille
Coffee was served with petit fours of raspberry macaron and cannelle.
Raspberry macaron and cannelle
Another fabulous meal from this restaurant and I look froward to returning in the future.
Today was the day I had to change hotels. After scoping out the route I needed to take, the rain helped my decision to take a cab. It isn’t a big walk between the two hotels and would have taken 10 minutes tops. But the thought of wheeling two suitcases while holding an umbrella in the rain was a put off. Cab ended up not being as expensive as I feared.
Another bonus was although check in wasn’t until 3 my room was ready so I was able to go straight up.
The rest of the day was a relaxing day walking through the shops in Ginza.
For dinner I went to one of my favourite noodle shops. Usually one of the ladies will come and help, but this time they had an English menu and even though the ticket vending machine is all in Japanese I was able to match the Kanji that was with the photo with the Kanji on the vending machine. I was so proud of myself.
My most feared contraption
Most of the meals are a rice dish accompanied by noodles, either hot or cold. Hot comes in a bowl with broth, cold comes on a bamboo plate with dipping sauce. I chose pork katsudon and hot noodles. Three nice chunks of pork Katsu, simmered with egg, soy and broth then served over rice. In the photo the white lidded pot holds sliced shallot(scallions to my US readers), two types of shichimi, The little white pot had wasabi and pickled ginger in the red pot on the right. Perfect for a wet evening.
Katsudon, hot noodles
I also bought myself a can of sparkling wine. It wasn’t too bad, novelty value was certainly worth the purchase.
Today I had planned to hit the Oedo Antique Market at Yoyogi Park. I am guessing they got a message about the weather that I didn’t and it was called off.
On a good note though there was an Okinawan Festival on. Lots of Okinawan food and beverages. 3 stages with music or chats, demonstrations etc. So I decided to hang around as I have long been fascinated by Okinawa.
Stage ready to go
My first exposure to Okinawa was “the Karate Kid II”. Sadly only small parts of that movie were actually filmed there.
On the main stage they were gearing up for performances and when the rope came down I grabbed a seat. Shortly after music started and so did the traditional drums. So loud but so exciting. I am a little embarrassed to say that I was so excited my eyes leaked a little(ok quite a bit, happy and excited remember). The big dog/lion even bit my leg as he danced past.
Those drums and the performance were totally amazing.
I watched about 45 minutes before the drizzle stepped up the pace and then I wandered around the food area, tried a citrus cocktail drink, refreshing, then went decided to give taco rice a try. Followed later by an Okinawan doughnut.
Taco rice
Okinawan doughnut
Okinawan doughnut inside
Then I had a walk through Yoyogi Koen. Some parts were like walking through a forest, and the rain made it more magical. Despite the location this park is so quiet. Apart from the crows, they seem to keep telling me the same thing…..hurry up and learn more Japanese.
Then a stroll down Omotesando back to Aoyama. So busy in spite of the rain, I only bothered with 3 shops the whole length of the street.
The rain had picked up I took that as a sign to head back to the hotel. I managed to get a table for dinner at TY Bis one of the restaurants in the hotel. Stay tuned for my dinner report in Part 2.
Many of the tower buildings around Shiodome (and Tokyo in general) have restaurants on the top floors. Caretta is one such building and it houses my dining destination for tonight. I have a feeling I have eaten here before, but it would have been way back in 2008, so memory is a bit fuzzy and I wasn’t blogging back then.
Exterior Dynamic Kitchen and Bar Hibiki
However, I decided I wanted to eat somewhere with a view and this restaurant certainly satisfied that wish. The front desk girl did however put a slight dampener on my first impression. I felt that had I been Japanese or other Asian I may have got a better response. For a restaurant that does get a lot of tourists, the lack of English was very off putting( as can be seen on reviews they get online). I was only able to sit at the bar, which considering the number of empty seats by the window was slightly disappointing, it was also a smoking area. I am willing to put up with it if needed.
View from my seat at the bar. Looks out to Odaiba and Tokyo Bay, so close yet so far
After perusing the menu it took a while to be noticed by some one to have my order taken. Good thing I am not a pro reviewer. I chose a sashimi plate, asparagus and Shimanto pork jeon pancakes, Fukushima Prefecture Aizujidori local chicken, Sake lees cheesecake with ice cream. Drinks started with Alamos Extra Brut Sparkling(Mendoza, Argentina), Koshu Suntory Japan Premium(Yamanashi,Japan), and with dessert Hibiki 17 year old( I know, again with the Hibiki).
Out first was a plate of appetisers, pickled turnip, spinach and ?, small miso with a pork meat ball in it.
Miso with pork meatball, spinach and ?, pickled turnip
Out next was the asparagus and Shimanto pork jeon pancake and the Aizujidori chicken, which came with a bowl of freshly ground sansho pepper. The chicken comes from Aizu and has a strong flavoured, darker meat. The cut was thigh with the skin on, sprinkled with a little sansho it was delicious. The pork came from the area around the Shimanto River which is in Kochi Prefecture on Shikoku Island,(google is my friend!).
Asparagus and Shimanto Pork jeon pancake
Fukushima Prefecture Aizujidori chicken
Asparagus and Shimanto pork Jeon pancake up close
Next was the sashimi, which was so good it didn’t have a fishy flavour. I know one was tuna but the others nobody stopped to tell me.
Sashimi plate for one
Dessert, well lets just say it was smaller than expected and quite unusual, holiday time things should be a bit unusual. Interesting flavour the two pieces were about 2cm square and that high. There was more ice cream than cheesecake. I know Japanese desserts aren’t usually big but this was a little disappointing. What should have been the star of the dish was upstaged by the support act. The Hibiki 17 Year Old was again fabulous!! So smooth and luscious, coating the mouth well. Perfect!
Sake lees cheesecake and icecream
Hibiki 17 Year old straight with 2 drops of water only
Then it was time to head back to the hotel picking up a night cap of sparkling sake(ok I thought it was a Japanese sparkling wine….must learn more Japanese!!!). Pull cap on it so didn’t need a corkscrew, good bubble, pours cloudy, almost looks like cloudy ammonia but tastes and smells a whole lot better. Dassai Sparkling 50.
Dassai Sparkling 50
Dassai Sparkling 50 pull tab top
Dassai Sparkling 50 in the glass
Thus ends my first real dining experience for this trip. If I had to give a rating it would be 3.5 out of 5.
Thanks for dropping by and stay tuned for tomorrows adventures, (if it doesn’t rain).
Hibiki 17 Year old straight with 2 drops of water only
Late start to the day, but while I was having my coffee I discovered that there was another antiques market this week end. This one was at Gokoku-Ji shrine and not a big one, around 30-40 vendors.
There were a few things that piqued my interest and of course the first thing I really liked ended up being the one I bought after checking all the stalls.
Things that piqued my interest: Tetsubin, prints, glass ware, tea cups(real tea ceremony type ones), obi, ceramics, lacquer ware, mizusashi of many types. Almost bought a furogama but didn’t have enough cash on me poor man I was only Y3000 short.
What did I buy I hear you ask. A beautiful Lacquer vase with gold cranes on it. Of course the first time I saw it when I walked past the vendor’s store I thought to myself “That is going to be out of my price range”. When I did venture back on my way out I asked and was shocked when the vendor told me Y1800 (about A$20) I almost fell over(thank goodness I didn’t I would fallen on lots of things). So I said yes very quickly.
Super buy at the Gokoku-Ji Antique market
With the box it comes in
The other thing I bought was a little drawing of pine branches. I don’t know why but I have this thing for Japanese pine trees and the shapes they take. I love Ukiyo-e art but this really caught my eye today. Cost the princely sum of Y500. The framing will cost a lot more unfortunately.
My pine branch drawing
And then at a loss for where to go next (especially seeing as it was 230pm) I settled on Kappabashi Dori, or as I call it the street of temptation. I spent a few minutes calculating the trains I needed to take and then had lunch. Nothing exciting so no photos, just a Korroke bun and melon pan washed down with a glass of sparkling.
Back on the train and around to Inaricho for the short walk to Kappabashi Dori. Along the way is a tiny, crammed little store selling all kinds of things. I spied two furogamas, the smaller of which really caught my eye, because you know, pine branch decoration on it. I waited for the lovely old lady to finish with another customer and managed to ask her how much. The second time in one day I almost fall over in disbelief: Y5300!!! I am naturally going to go back, just have to work out how to get it home first. The weight is the main issue. Might see about sending it home via slooowww post.
As it was getting late and a lot of the shops were soooo busy, I only stopped in a few. I did manage to get 2 bowls to match some I had bought on another trip, 6 glass plates (which are so well wrapped you wont get to see them), and two pretty white ceramic dishes to match ones I bought last year. I have to go back as I had so many bags today I was scared I would knock things over. I tell you that street is just full of temptation.
Bowls to add to the collection, the big one is navy not black on the rim
I took time to factor in my travel back to the hotel and went to track two when I should have gone track one. Silly gaijin tourist moment. But all good in the end, went to the end of the line walked to track 4 and was back on course.
I did go for a nice dinner but will post that separately.
It is meant to rain all day tomorrow so the antique market at Yoyogi will most likely be cancelled but you know these weather forecasters they can be a bit off some times. Might be lucky and have a sunny day instead. Fingers crossed.
While the idea of and early arrival is good in theory, the hours before check in to your hotel can be very long.
This year is the first time I have flown in to Haneda airport, in the past it has always beeen Narita. I was a bit worried about getting in to Shiodome from Haneda but truth be told it was super easy. Hop the monorail to Hamatsucho, short walk to Daimon Toei Oedo Subway station then Next stop Shiodome. Which meant I was at the hotel just around 630am.
Seeing as I had so much time, I jumped on the Yamanote line to Nippori, had a coffee and snack at a Tullys, then decided to check out Yanaka. I only spent and hour there but will need to go back for more exploring. It is currently Ajisai(hydrangea) season and I was amazed to see some different varieties in the street gardens.
Ajisai bush – Yanaka
Ajisai
Ajisai
Ajisai – Yanaka
Ajisai
Yanaka Ginza
Yanaka Ginza
Ajisai bush – Yanaka
Ajisai
Ajisai
Ajisai – Yanaka
Yanaka Ginza
Yanaka Ginza
Ajisai
I walked back to Nippori and its famous Fabric Street. A whole street. With 100 shops selling everything you could need for sewing. As I was too busy looking at shops I only got one photo. You could do a lot of damage to your purse here if you sew.
Looking along fabric street before opening time.
After 3 hours it was time to give the feet a rest and head back towards the hotel for lunch prior to official check in. I found a little theme restaurant called Kaiju Sakaba, (monster bar)based on amonster from Japanese TV shows. Think Ultraman and similar shows from the late ‘60’s and the ‘70’s. Delicious lunch and cute monsters.
Then back to the hotel where my room was ready. After a six hour nap, (I know right naps are short, but I only had about 2-3 hours sleep on the plane), I needed dinner. A quick walk to Ginza, where I enjoyed a Hibiki 17 year old whisky before grabbing a couple of items at a conbini for a light dinner, plus a little something for a night cap.
Hibiki 17 year old, that’s right I have mine neat with 2 drops of water
Brick my favourite whisky bar
Exterior of Brick, my favourite whisky bar
Night cap – Asahi peach flavoured and Suntory grape flavoured, light alcohol beverages
The night before my departure from Tokyo I spied a glass exhibition around the corner from my hotel. Sadly it was closed the day I was leaving and all I was able to see was the items in the window display.
Glass exhibition in Ginza
I also tried my first can of SLAT, a Japanese low alcohol drink. Would have been very refreshing on a hot day.
My first taste of Slat
The day of my departure I checked out and with hours to spare I trekked over to visit Meiji-Jingu, a regular departure day event for me. This year I was interested to see how work had progressed on redoing the copper roofs of the shrine precincts. I also like to pay my respects and say a little prayer to return to Tokyo. It was amazing to see how the copper that had been placed when Mum and I visited in 2016 had weathered.
Meiji-Jingu
Meiji-Jingu roof replaced in 2016 and weathered
Fresh copper roof Meiji-Jingu
And that was my quick visit to Tokyo.
Two days after arriving back in Sydney it was time to move out. Most of my packing had been done, I had moved what I could over previous months and it was mainly the big things left in the house. Mum and Dad came down to help me move up to their place.
Work has finally started on the estate where I will be building and hopefully I will be able to start building in October.
In the mean time I have another trip planned to Tokyo leaving on Thursday. A little longer this time and I am hoping to head out for a day of hiking around Mt Takao, 55 minutes from Tokyo.
So pop back to see where my feet and the Tokyo trains take me.
I have a Facebook friend that I have known since our days on a beading forum. Rie was on holiday visiting her father at the same time I was in Tokyo so we decided to finally meet in person.
We spent the first part of our day at Edo-Tokyo Open Air Architectural Museum located in Musashi-Koganei. This was a fabulous Museum showing pre Meiji era architecture and architectural styles that developed later as more western influences crept in to the Japanese vernacular. Everything from farmhouses, mansions and your average house was covered. There is even a whole street that was taken down and reassembled including the sento. One building even bears scars from the WWII, shrapnel marks from the bombing of Tokyo.
Copper clad building damaged by shrapnel
Copper clad building damaged by shrapnel. Close up you can see the damage more clearly.
Inside a traditional farmhouse. We were fortunate to find a delightful lady who worked at the Museum while we walked around the farmhouse. She was very informative. You may notice there is no ceiling and that the rafters are all blackened from smoke. The farmhouses were forbidden to have ceilings as the farmers could have hidden weapons in the space between ceiling and roof. The bamboo, even though blackened by smoke, heat and soot, actually becomes harder over time. Insects find the roofing material unappealing because of the smoke that has infused the roof.
Cooking area
Blackened roof
Storage baskets
Irori with blackened bamboo chain cover
Scullery/dishwashing area
Inside a sento. This one is not in use but has been maintained and stocked as it would have been found in the 40’s/50’s. Male and female bathing areas in this one are seperated by a wall that they could have talked over if they wanted. Baskets were on shelves to store personal belongings, stools and buckets for for washing before entering the baths. The tiled mosaics decorating the walls were most impressive and featured allegorical tales.
Exterior of sento (white wall)
Mosaic decoration, taps for washing prior to bathing
Mosaic decoration
Mosaic decoration
Mosaic decoration
Baskets for personal belongings
Stools and buckets for washing
The baths with different areas for different temperatures
A house that formerly belonged to a member of the illustrious Mitsui family was also on display and certainly showed the combining of western and Japanese architecture. While most of the house held to a more traditional style, the kitchen was pure 1930’s/1940’s western design. So many beautiful artistic touches in this fabulous house. Everything from painting on doors, silk panels in ceilings, art deco glass lampshades, timber carving and more.
Painted door
Painted door
Mon, familial insignia
Vintage kitchen
Vintage kitchen
Silk paneled ceiling
Art deco glass light fitting
CArved door
Artfully arranged wood ceiling
Heavy duty storage chests for family valuables
No nails, Japanese carpentry at its best
Strong room/vault door
Of course it was a hot day so we needed to cool down. One of the larger houses has an area fitted out as a very elegant cafe. Rie and I had a shaved ice treat with matcha. The ice was cold and the matcha strong, and a dollop of sweet bean.
Pre matcha
after pouring our matcha on
After a bit more looking around it was time for a late lunch, sushi at a fabulous and popular sushi train a short walk away. Ok I know sushi trains are pretty common and not usually exciting. This one was. While the normal things came around on the track there was also the option to order other items from the tablet menu. These were whizzed out on a separate track. Sadly no photos
We then headed to a huge second hand fashion store before having a quick look around Kichijoji.
After a very full day it was time to say good bye and head our separate ways.
Cooking Across 4 Generations 
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