Recently we took advantage of a glorious autumn day and drove down to Bowral. While still crisp, the sun was shining and once we hit the Southern Highlands the autumn foliage was stunning.
Located just before the town of Bowral, Centennial Vineyards is spread over several hills with the restaurant positioned to take maximum advantage of the views over the vines and surrounding area.
Restaurant on the left and Tasting room on the rightOver the vines
Our first stop was the tasting room where we sampled the sparkling and white wines. Some really great wines and one variety we hadn’t tried before, Savagnin. Some amazing rieslings on offer too. We didn’t try the reds this time which gives us an excuse to head back down there another time.
From the exterior the buildings have a European appearance. With a tower and large dining room replete with large open fire, the restaurant has a cosy country feel. On our visit we decided to take advantage of the sunny day and enjoy the views from the enclosed veranda. The veranda was nicely heated and quite popular on our visit.
Our lunch started with a complimentary amuse, which took the chill off.
Amuse of Sweet potato soup
Rather than have two seperate entrees, we decided to go for The Highland Platter, which is a signature tasting plate of seasonal and local products, comprising six individual components….
The Highland Platter
R decided to go for the locally bred, “Tova Platinum” Beef Fillet. This was a Southern Highlands grass fed beef fillet, accompanied by smoked potato puree, red onion compote,
grilled bone marrow, worcestershire mushrooms & Centennial Shiraz jus….
Tova Platinum beef
I went for something a little lighter, pork cooked two ways, corn puree, corn salsa….
Pork two ways
Some fries were also eaten….
Fries with aioli
Deciding against dessert we opted for a cloth bound cheddar, persimmon….
Should you ever find yourself heading to the Southern Highlands on a glorious sunny day, whatever the season, I highly recommend a visit to Centennial Vineyards and Restaurant. Perhaps stay the night in Bowral to have a good look around town.
For the Henschke dinner I made this beetroot glaze to go with a stuffed lamb loin. As the lamb was quite fatty, the acidity in this beetroot glaze went really well with it and
cut through the fat. This is a recipe I have adapted from Masterchef tv show.
Stuffed lamb loin, rosemary and parmesan pommes anna, beetroot glaze
100g Beetroot, grated (I like finely grated, however coarsely grated is good too)
50 mls Port
50g brown sugar
40 mls sherry vinegar
40 sherry, pedro ximenez if possible
1 bay leaf
Place the brown sugar in a heavy based saucepan and caramelise slightly over medium heat.
Add remaining ingredients, reduce heat and simmer until the beetroot has softened and is cooked through. The liquid should have reduced to a thickish syrup.
May 1st was our second wine dinner for the year at the Club. This time we chose Penfold’s and show cased some of the Bin Range. Considering the crazy Autumn weather we have been having here in Sydney I planned the menu with a cold starter before moving on to some heartier dishes that are a bit more filling and appropriate for the season..
Penfold’s Bin Range was established by Max Schubert in the image of his legendary Grange. From the Penfold’s website…:
‘Max Schubert believed that Penfolds needed wines crafted in the image of his legendary Grange. “Not the same,” said Max, “but similar.” Penfolds had long maintained a system of numbered ‘bins’ in the cellar where the finest wines, often for the exclusive enjoyment of the company’s directors, were stored. Max happily used this system to give clear and well defined identities to the new wines he was planning, starting with the famous Bin 28 of 1959.’
‘The range has grown and evolved since those early days and now includes some of Australia’s most highly sought after wines and their annual release has become one of the most eagerly anticipated in the wine collectors calendar. While there will only ever be one Grange, Max’s conviction that the Penfolds approach of sourcing the best fruit from the finest vineyards to marry regional and varietal character to the distinctive Penfolds style, maintaining an unwaveringly high level of quality, lives on in the impressive range of Bin wines. Many of these wines have long and proud histories, while others are newer adherents to that same ideal, but all of them share one thing in common. They are all classically Penfolds.’
In March Penfold’s released the 2013 Bin Range, whites from 2012, reds from 2010, 2011 and 2012. For our event we had the following wines Bin 51 Riesling 2012, Eden Valley, Bin311 Chardonnay 2012, Tumbarumba, Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon 2010, Mystery wine was Bin 150 Shiraz 2010, Marananga(Barossa Valley sub region). For dessert we had a great port Penfold’s Bluestone Grand Tawny.
Entree was a seafood terrine inspired by one of my favourite recipe books and one of our favourite, although sadly closed, restaurants Banc. Layers of prawn, scallop, balmain bugs, tomato, roasted capsicum and leafy herbs, set in a crystal clear stock, with a fine leek exterior. Went superbly well with the 311 Chardonnay.
Scallop, prawn and Balmain bug terrine
Main course was a slow cooked Wagyu beef cheek, roasted garlic and parmesan puree, with the vegetables from the braising. Sauce was a reduction of red wine and the cooking juices from the braise. Well matched to the Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon.
Slow cooked beef cheeks, roasted garlic and parmesan mash
Dessert was a seriously rich, yet light as air, steamed chocolate pudding with maple syrup anglaise, toffee strawberry, and toffee walnuts. Amazing with the Bluestone Grand Tawny.
Steamed chocolate pudding, maple anglaise, toffee strawberry and walnuts
Great reaction from our diners. I was a bit worried about what they would think of the terrine but it was well received with many positive comments. Over all a wonderful night.
Our next dinner is in June, alas I will be in New York, but I have left a menu that has two items from myself and the dessert by our Sous Chef Vince which is being used in the upcoming Clubs NSW Chefs Table competition that he and our apprentice Richard entered and got through to the finals.
At our recent Henschke wine dinner we served this for dessert and it was quite a hit. Traditionally pannacotta is made with a base of cream and milk. Adding a some Greek style yoghurt gives it a nice zing, and lightens the overt creaminess. This recipe is adapted from a post by Lorraine Elliott of Not quite Nigella, originally prepared by Justine Schofield.
Honey and vanilla pannacotta, coffee caramel sauce, coffe almond brittle
Pannacotta:
250g Cream
150g Greek style yoghurt
100g Milk
4 Tablespoons good quality runny honey,
1/2 Vanilla bean
2 Gelatine, Titanium strength
Lightly spray 6 x 125ml moulds with canola spray and place on a flat tray.
Place the gelatine sheets in a bowl with cold water until soft. Squeeze to get rid of excess water.
Split the vanilla bean down the length and scrape into a saucepan with the honey, milk, cream and yoghurt. Warm gently to simmer point and remove from heat, gently whisk in the gelatine.
Strain through a colander in to a jug to remove the vanilla bean.
Gently pour into the prepared moulds, allow to cool. Cover with cling film and refrigerate overnight.
Coffee Caramel Sauce:
220g Cream
180g Sugar
100g Unsalted, cultured butter
40g Espresso coffee
Place the cream and coffee together in a jug.
Place the sugar in a heavy based saucepan and caramelise to a dark golden colour.
Remove the saucepan from the heat and gently whisk in the butter, cream and coffee until all well combined. Pour in to heat proof jug and refrigerate until needed. It will thicken slightly in the fridge but take it out an hour before needed to come to room temperature.
Coffee almond brittle:
60g Slivered almonds
175g Sugar
80g Water
1/2 Tablespoon Finely ground coffee
Place sheet of silicone paper/Glad Bake on a cookie tray.
Place the almonds in a frypan and lightly toast to get a little colour. Scatter evenly over the prepared tray.
Place the water and sugar in a small heavy based saucepan and caramelise to a golden brown colour over a medium heat. Occaisionally use a pastry brush dipped in cold water to wipe the sides of the saucepan down. As soon as you reach the desired colour immediately pour over the almonds. Allow to set. When set break some in to nice pieces and place the remainder in a zip lock bag and lightly pound to break it up.
I also added some raisins that had been soaked in bourbon and maple syrup. After straining the liquid off the raisins you could reduce it down a little to pour over some icecream.
100g Raisins
80mls Bourbon (which ever brand takes your fancy)
80 mls Maple syrup (use pure not maple flavoured syrup)
Place raisins into a heat proof bowl that has a lid.
Gently heat the bourbon and maple syrup just to a simmer and the pour over the raisins. Leave to cool and then cover and leave for 2 – 3 days before using.
To Serve:
Using a paring knife, loosen the top edge of the pannacotta and then turn upside down. Using you finger tips gently prise the edge of the pannacotta away from the mould, which will allow air to get between them give a gentle shake and it should pop out. Arrange on the plate.
Drain the raisins. Make a little pile of the crushed coffee almond brittle, top with a couple of the raisins. Lean the larger saved pieces of brittle against the panna cotta, pour some sauce around.
Beginning of March saw the Club present our first wine dinner for 2013.
Menu for Henschke dinner
Renowned South Australian winery Henschke was selected and a menu was designed to complement the wines.
Table setting for Henschke dinnerThe VIVA Room set for dinner
Unlike other wine dinners we have done, this time we kept it to 3 courses and were able to select wines that were a little more mature.
To start a wine I have not seen in retail Henschke Lenswood Blanc de Noirs NV. A selection of five canapes was offered along with the sparkling. Unfortunately I only got photos of two of the canapes, the crispy bbq pork belly with bbq sauce and sweet potato and brie croquettes with coriander aioli.
Crispy pork belly with BBQ sauceLittle sweet potato and brie croquettes with coriander aioli
First course was a Peking duck roulade, rather than use the traditional pancakes, we used a crepe with finely chopped coriander leaves in the batter which gave a pretty spotted effect. This was served with Henschke Joseph’s Hill Gewurztraminer 2010.
Peking duck in a coriander crepe
Our second course was a stuffed lamb loin, on parmesan and rosemary scented pommes anna, green beans wrapped in proscuitto, beetroot glaze and rosemary jus. The lamb loin needed quite a bit of work, firstly to minimise the amount of fat over the flap and then after it was stuffed with spinach, garlic, rosemary and thyme I had to tie them all up( 12 loins in total). Talk about rope cuts!! We served this with Henschke Henry’s Seven 2005.
Stuffed lamb loin, rosemary and parmesan pommes anna, beetroot glaze
Our mystery wine was a wonderful 20 year old Cyril Henscke Cabernet Sauvignon. This was the oldest wine we have ever been able to offer our diners, and I think they really enjoyed it. I know I did!
For dessert a honey and vanilla pannacotta, coffee caramel sauce, coffee and almond brittle. so much flavour and a great range of textures. This was served with Henschke Muscat of Tappa Pass 2010. For a dessert wine this was not overly sweet and had a nice balanced acidity to it. Yum!! I also added a few raisins soaked in bourbon and maple syrup to complete the dish.
Honey and vanilla pannacotta, coffee caramel sauce, coffee almond brittle
Over all everyone enjoyed themselves and had a great night. Even in the kitchen we had a smooth service of the food and we are looking forward to our next dinner in May.
One of our regular places to go in Tokyo is a whisky bar called Brick. We stumbled across Brick during our first visit in 2008 and each time we have been since we head there for a whisky.
Brick during daylight hours
Brick is located a couple of lane ways off Ginza’s main street of Chuo Dori. Easiest directions are on Chuo Dori turn left at Shiseido at Ginza 7 Chome(Mont Blanc shop is diagonally opposite), walk down to Pronto restaurant and turn left again and it is a couple of shops down on the right. We always get lost the first night we try to go there, but never fear there is plenty to look at if you do get lost.
Here in Australia we have “no smoking” laws in enclosed places, Tokyo does not. While neither R or I smoke, we do enjoy the fact that cigar and cigarette smoke goes so well with a whisky. For this reason alone we are willing to put up with second hand smoke. Plus the smokiness adds to the ambience.
The decor at Brick is exposed brickwork, wood paneling and leather. Seating is at the bar or the kidney shaped table. The low lighting level gives a warm, cosy, intimate feel even when the room is busy.
Decor at Brick
A wood paneled bar stretches the 6 metre length of one wall, with three quarters of the length of the bar display solely dedicated to whisky. Who knew there were so many, and probably many more that aren’t used at Brick. Fortunately the whisky list is in English and has Scottish, Irish and Japanese whiskies along with around 15 bourbons from the USA. There is also the standard collection of spirits and a short but good selection of wine.
Some of the whisky selection at BrickThe bar at Brick
A small menu also helps for those wanting a little something to nibble on.
There is another level upstairs where they occasionally have live music. If you are in to whisky/whiskey or just want somewhere ‘cool’ to have a drink, Brick is a good starting point.
I have included a Google map in links to help you find your way to Brick. Unfortunately no yellow ‘Brick” road to help you get there.
When we visit Tokyo our hotel of choice is the Park Hotel in Shiodome. Located a short walk from Ginza, the Shiodome area has easy access to transport, so handy in fact that last year, for the first time ever, we took the train from Narita Airport to Shimbashi station and walked to the hotel. The Park Hotel is located in the Shiodome Media Tower, on floors 25 to 34. The rest of the tower is occupied by Kyodo News. I really like the way the Japanese combine a hotel with businesses in their towers. The Park Hyatt is the same, offices on the lower floors and the hotel on the upper floors.
Shiodome Media Tower/Park Hotel
We usually book a room that looks out to Tokyo Tower(city view room) which when there is clear weather also includes majestic Fuji-san in the distance.
Early morning beauty shot. Tokyo Tower and Fuji-sanTokyo Tower by night
We have never eaten in the hotel restaurant, usually because we are out so much taking in all that Tokyo has to offer. Last year we decided to finally give it a try.
This person is known not to have an aversion to champagne
TY by Tateru Yoshino is located on the 25th floor of the Park Hotel (Lobby floor). With panoramic views out over Tokyo and Tokyo Tower, it is an intimate, elegant and refined setting, white cloths, crystal, silver and dark woods. The room is a not overly large so there is no loud noise to compete with. Presenting a degustation menu where customers can choose some of their dishes is a great option, and means that you can have something different to your partner.
Amuse bouche of mackerel and petit flowersAmuse bouche and the freshly baked breadMushroom soupScallop and prawn with a shellfish foam
A specialty of the house is the Assorted Seasonal Vegetables Presented in the Image of Monet. A delightful plate of baby vegetables, flowers and herbs with a light dressing.
Monet’s Garden
The first few courses we had were the same, mains however R had a beautiful slow cooked beef, while I had duck breast.
Before dessert we decided to have the optional cheese course. The waiter wheeled out a trolley with around 10 cheeses on it. We selected 3 which was enough for us.
Selection of cheese
Dessert was 5 flavours of chocolate. I nust remember to write things down, but there was cinnamon, coffee and well I guess I need to have pen and paper in future. Very delicious.
Five flavours of chocolate
Deciding to have a coffee we were greatly impressed with the selection of mignardises (petit fours) that was wheeled out. I think there were about 20 things to chhose from. Some fruit jellies, cannelles, churros, madeleines, coated nuts, and so many more.
Mignardises
R had a wonderful birthday dinner and we chose some great French wines to go with the meal.
TY by Tateru Yoshino was awarded one Michelin star for 2013. Tateru Yoshino has another 2 restaurants in Tokyo (Ginza and Shiba) and he also chef/patron of the Michelin starred Stella Maris in Paris.
If you are in Tokyo I would recommend a visit to TY Tateru Yoshino in the Park Hotel.
Leaving London behind we flew across the channel to Switzerland and our next port of call Zurich.
Coming in to Zurich
We stayed at the Swissotel, located at Oerlikon, just out of the city centre, a short tram ride was all it took to get to the city centre. A 24 hour pass for trains, buses and trams was around A$10 a person, it also allowed us to take some of the river taxis if we had felt like it. The Swissotel has an amazing pool located on the top floor giving panoramic views of Zurich and the country side around it, right out to the alps in the distance.
The breakfast buffet in the Swissotel is very extensive and a great range of food for all tastes is available. I counted 18 bread and bakery items, unfortunately that is too much for me to work my way through. There is also a vibrant bar and restaurant in the Swissotel, which we unfortunatley didn’t have a chance to try out, next time.
Twice a week the square behind the Swissotel becomes a fruit, vegetable and flower market, with some stalls also offering preserves made from their own produce. I wish I had taken my camera down as there were varieties that we don’t see here in Australia. It would also have been nice to have been able to have cooked with some of the offerings. Also handy was a supermarket where you could get some groceries and incredibly cheap mineral water. San Pellegrino 1litre for about A$1.05, back here it costs just over A$3.
Zurich City has a population of 400,00 within the city and 1.83 million in the whole canton(state). Which makes it a nice size to get around. After catching the tram in we just walked. So many beautiful old buildings with interesting architectural details. I really loved looking at the roof detailing on the buildings, so much more interesting than the triangle shape we mainly have in Australia. Lots of little streets to wander and explore. So many small jewellery makers located around town which was great to see. Craft skills seemed to be taken more seriously in Switzerland, whether it be jewellery making, lace making etc.
Lane way ZurichLimmat Quai
We ate in the old town area several times. On two occasions having fondue at Adler’s Swiss Chuchi and also dined in a Bierhalle. While R tried some local beers I worked my way through the local white wines. A shame we have trouble sourcing Swiss wines here in Australia as they were very good. Down by Quaibrucke is a stand selling some great hotdogs and wurstli, just perfect for a quick lunch. Should you need chocolate there is no shortage of stores and cafes.
Inside our favourite bierehalleWorked my way through most of the whites
Wandering the cobblestone streets, walking beside the river and lake was a really enjoyable experience. No-one seemed to be rushing and everyone was polite.
Street in ZurichRiver sideAcross the lake to the Alps
Sitting having a cocktail in a square in the old town was a nice way to relax.
Cocktails to wind down after a big day exploring
We also got to see a Youth Marching Band festival and a watersports festival which seemed to consist of teams on boats jousting. Obviously the winner was the one who didn’t get knocked in the river.
Part of the reason for our trip to Zurich was to go and visit the workshops of two high end, independent watchmakers, Greubel Forsey and Kari Voutilainen. This meant we would need to have an over night stay close to La Chaux-de-Fonds and Môtiers. Consulting Google we decided our base would be Neuchâtel and our accomodation the Beau Rivage Hotel. As we were being picked up and driven from Zurich to go to La Chaux-de-Fonds and then to Neuchâtel, it would only be a short return train trip for us to Môtiers.
Lac de Neuchâtel
The Beau Rivage Hotel is located on the edge of Lake Neuchâtel (AKA lac de Neuchâtel in French and Neuenburgersee in German) with views of the Lake and the Alps in the distance. Originally a grand town house of great elegance built in 1862, during the first part of the 20th century it was home to a famous restaurant, the building was entirely renovated in 1993 to become the first 5-star hotel of the Three Lakes region. The Beau Rivage is a member of Relais & Chateau and is rated as 5 étoiles Supérieure, Gault Millau rating 14, and is in Guide Michelin.
Beau Rivage, NeuchâtelBeau Rivage, bar and terraceView from our room
Our room
After a full day visiting Greubel Forsey and touring the magnificent Musée d’Horlogerie du Locle, housed in the historic Château des Monts at Le Locle, we arrived at the Beau Rivage, checked in, freshened up and had a walk around the town. With Neuchâtel being in the heart of Switzerland’s watchmaking mecca it was not surprising to find watch references around town. Beautiful old buildings abound and the views of the lake and alps are spectacular. Someone was even water skiing which got me a bit jealous.
After our walk we went to dine in the hotel’s Restaurant O Terroirs. As the evening was spectacularly mild we were given the choice of dining on the lake side veranda or inside. Of course we decided outside would be nicer. Watching the sunset over Lake Neuchâtel while the dying rays of the sun tint the majestic Swiss Alps in shades of pink and grey while having a wonderful meal is truly a memory I won’t forget. Thanks to Greubel Forsey for our diner.
Sun setting on the alps, looking across Lake Neuchâtel
First up was an amuse bouche of crab, tomato and avocado….
Amuse bouche of crab and
Mr. CA4G had an entree of seared foie gras…..
Foie gras, tempura onion rings, asparagus
I enjoyed a “cigar” of egg plant filled with goat curd, on a lemon sponge, olive oil ice cream…..
“cigar” of eggplant filled with goat curd
For mains Mr. CA4G had lamb three ways, cutlet, loin, merguez sausage, with cous cous, while I opted for duck meat balls, proscuitto, potato crisps, artichokes……
Lamb three waysDuck meat balls
Having had dessert at lunch we opted for cheese, all local to the region….
Local artisanal cheese board
As we were finishing our meal, the clouds rolled in, and a spectacular sound and light show(storm) rolled across the lake.
The next morning was light but drizzly. We had a lovely buffet breakfast in the hotel and caught our first Swiss cab to the station. Now my French isn’t the best and I do know how to ask for “two return tickets to Môtiers” unfortunately I don’t know the French for “which platform”. Luckily for us a young Swiss man spoke good English and was able to direct us. The train to Môtiers takes about 40 minutes from Neuchâtel, passing through lush green fields and mountains, stopping at several lovely little towns. Arriving at Môtiers, we were met at the station by Kari Voutilainen and walked to his house a short way from the station. Not knowing much about Môtiers, we were surprised to find it was (and still is) a town with a history of Absinth production, apart from watch production. After a leisurely tour through Kari’s Atelier looking at his watches and production, he took us to lunch in the local cafe/hall/beer house. Unfortunately no photos, but we had the special of the day which was Chilli con carne( I know you, go all the way to Switzerland to have chilli con carne, but it was GOOD), followed by creme brulee. Seriously good, must be all that fabulous Swiss cream and free range eggs.
Bovet Absinth distillery, Môtiers
Saying good bye to Môtiers, we headed back to Neuchâtel to catch our train to Zurich. As the train wound its way through the country side we saw many vineyards that produce some great Swiss wines.
Thanks for dropping in!! Look out for my Zurich report.
Cooking Across 4 Generations 
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