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Cooking Across 4 Generations

Using recipes collected from 4 generations of one family

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Restaurants

Restaurants we have eaten at here in Australia or around the world. Not reviews just experiences.

Day 8 Tokyo 2018: Tsukiji Market, Omiya and Shimbashi After Dark

The weather was a bit iffy in the morning and by the time I walked over to Tsukiji Market the heavens opened. With the heavy rain coming down I decided to keep my visit to the outer market. After wandering around I bought myself some new knives, a Yanagiba and a Deba. I also bought a super fine mesh skimmer,which had mesh finer than I could get at home.

Yanagiba and Deba from Aritsugu at Tsukiji Market

The rain cut my visit short so I dropped my purchases at the hotel before hopping the train out to Omiya.

I had planned on eating at my usual restaurant but when I entered  I thought I had gone to the wrong place. All the retro kitsch was gone and the lovely old people who ran it were nowhere to be seen. The new owners are a very pleasant couple of similar vintage to myself. Gone are the olive green banquettes and no more Karaoke. The place has been given a new life and a new name. I had my usual, Kari Raisu, served with a small salad with a cheese croquette, crumbed fish and miso soup. A small chocolate marquis and tea was also served.

Kari Raisu, cheese Korroke, miso soup
Chocolate marquise and tea

Then it was time to hit the second hand shop across the road. By now the rain had finished and blue sky was peeking through the clouds.

Note to self: big suitcase must be practically empty when departing Australia. You would think I would have learnt by now wouldn’t you. It was 13kg when I checked in at Sydney, but obviously I need to put less in it next time. Or fly Qantas over and JAL back( 2 x 20kg suitcase with JAL).

After a first walk through, I picked out a set of lacquered fan shaped serving plates, some fabric offcuts, two white and blue plates and two little chawan with lids. I paid for my purchases and then while waiting for them to be wrapped I spied a bronze vase with a frog on it. The body of the vase is matte and the frog has been polished, umm it sort of jumped in to my hands. I couldn’t pass it up. So that was a successful expedition, although I was hoping to buy a regular sized chawan or a mizusashi, I just couldn’t find any that spoke to me. Next time maybe.

Lacquer fan plates, Chawan, plates
Frog vase, bronze maybe?

Then back to the hotel again where I unloaded my goodies and headed out into unknown territory, the other side of Shimbashi Station.

I have only previously looked down from Platform 6 to the other side of Shimbashi, so this was a new adventure for me. The lights were all starting to come on as I arrived and people were starting to pour into bars, izakaya and restaurants as their week came to an end.

I strolled around ducking and weaving through the crowds taking photos here and there.

I found a whisky bar and headed up stairs to find 2 now rare bottles of whisky, The Hakushu and The Yamazaki 18 Year Old. At Y2400 per glass, the rarity factor was too good to pass up. I think I impressed the barman by ordering my whiskies straight with a glass of water on the side, of which I then put two drops in the whisky. Guess he was expecting me to go with onzarokku.

Moon Shine Whisky Bar
Yamazaki 18Year old
Interior, Moonshine Bar
Interior, Moonshine Bar

I decided to head back to the tracks and try my luck for some thing to eat. I found a great place downstairs, noisy, smoky and lots of activity.  Even though the menu had photos and I was happy to just pick and point they bought me an English menu.

I think I may have overdone it though. Pickled shallot, grilled chicken skewer with Ume paste, pork belly with negi, Mozzarella korroke, spicy chorizo skewer and karaage chicken. So much good food!! My drink of choice was plum wine with soda. A big glass came out which was quite surprising, I am used to a more genteel sized glass being served.

My mystery restaurant, no English name
Rakkyou
Yakitori chicken skewer with ume paste and pork with negi
Mozzarella Korroke
Chorizo skewer
Chicken Kara age

With my hunger sated I waddled back out in to the night and the sad realisation that the next day would be my last full day in Tokyo, my Shiny town.

Day 3 Tokyo 2018 Dinner at TY Bis

 

Day 3 Tokyo 2018 Dinner at TY Bis

One restaurant I do enjoy going to is TY Bis in Park Hotel Shiodome.
French trained Japanese chef Tateru Yoshino is behind the wonderful food that comes out of the kitchen.
The menu is very French and very delicious. There are two set course options as well as a la carte. I decided on the smaller of the set courses. I love how the set menus you actually get to pick which dishes you would like rather than preselected by the chef.
After settling in I decided a glass of Champagne was a good decision(when isn’t it?) and selected a glass of Deutz Champagne.
Amuse Bouche was a pair of light cheese puffs.

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Cheese puffs for an use bouche

Bread was freshly made baguette and my second piece was pain de compagne. Both delicious.

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Bread trolley

Weingut Heymann and Lowenstein reisling from Mosel went well with my soup and  entree, as it was a drier style of Riesling.
The appetiser was a fluffy beetroot foam over a set bouillon and caramelised onion.

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Beetroot foam, Caramelised onion, gelled bouillon

Soup was a creamy mushroom that was light but full of flavour, several croutons hidden beneath the froth on top gave a nice crunch.

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Cream of mushroom soup

Entree was pate en croute – pork and chicken meat with a bit of foil gras in the mix, served with cornichons and a tiny salad.

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Pate en croute

Main I chose pork. This was served as a large croquette, with white asparagus, cabbage and morels. This was accompanied by Baron Phillippe de Rothschild Cabernet Sauvignon from the Pays D’Oc.

Dessert was chocolate Mille feuille, chocolate ganache, chocolate ice cream, chocolate plaque

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Chocolate Mille Feuille

Coffee was served with petit fours of raspberry macaron and cannelle.

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Raspberry macaron and cannelle

Another fabulous meal from this restaurant and I look froward to returning in the future.

 

 

 

 

 

Day 4 Tokyo 2018 Hotel Change, Katsudon and Noodles

Today was the day I had to change hotels. After scoping out the route I needed to take, the rain helped my decision to take a cab. It isn’t a big walk between the two hotels and would have taken 10 minutes tops. But the thought of wheeling two suitcases while holding an umbrella in the rain was a put off. Cab ended up not being as expensive as I feared.
Another bonus was although check in wasn’t until 3 my room was ready so I was able to go straight up.
The rest of the day was a relaxing day walking through the shops in Ginza.
For dinner I went to one of my favourite noodle shops. Usually one of the ladies will come and help, but this time they had an English menu and even though the ticket vending machine is all in Japanese I was able to match the Kanji that was with the photo with the Kanji on the vending machine. I was so proud of myself.

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My most feared contraption

Most of the meals are a rice dish accompanied by noodles, either hot or cold. Hot comes in a bowl with broth, cold comes on a bamboo plate with dipping sauce. I chose pork katsudon and hot noodles. Three nice chunks of pork Katsu, simmered with egg, soy and broth then served over rice. In the photo the white lidded pot holds sliced shallot(scallions to my US readers), two types of shichimi, The little white pot had wasabi and pickled ginger in the red pot on the right. Perfect for a wet evening.

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Katsudon, hot noodles

I also bought myself a can of sparkling wine. It wasn’t too bad, novelty value was certainly worth the purchase.

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Sparkling wine in a can

Thanks for dropping by!!

Tokyo Day 2 2018 -Dinner at Dynamic Kitchen and Bar Hibiki

Many of the tower buildings around Shiodome (and Tokyo in general) have restaurants on the top floors. Caretta is one such building and it houses my dining destination for tonight. I have a feeling I have eaten here before, but it would have been way back in 2008, so memory is a bit fuzzy and I wasn’t blogging back then.

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Exterior Dynamic Kitchen and Bar Hibiki

However, I decided I wanted to eat somewhere with a view and this restaurant certainly satisfied that wish. The front desk girl did however put a slight dampener on my first impression. I felt that had I been Japanese or other Asian I may have got a better response. For a restaurant that does get a lot of tourists, the lack of English was very off putting( as can be seen on reviews they get online). I was only able to sit at the bar, which considering the number of empty seats by the window was slightly disappointing,  it was also a smoking area. I am willing to put up with it if needed.

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View from my seat at the bar. Looks out to Odaiba and Tokyo Bay, so close yet so far

After perusing the menu it took a while to be noticed by some one to have my order taken. Good thing I am not a pro reviewer. I chose a sashimi plate, asparagus and Shimanto pork jeon pancakes, Fukushima Prefecture Aizujidori local chicken, Sake lees cheesecake with ice cream. Drinks started with Alamos Extra Brut Sparkling(Mendoza, Argentina), Koshu Suntory Japan Premium(Yamanashi,Japan),  and with dessert Hibiki 17 year old( I know, again with the Hibiki).

Out first was a plate of appetisers, pickled turnip, spinach and ?, small miso with a pork meat ball in it.

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Miso with pork meatball, spinach and ?, pickled turnip

Out next was the asparagus and Shimanto pork jeon pancake and the Aizujidori chicken, which came with a bowl of freshly ground sansho pepper. The chicken comes from Aizu and has a strong flavoured, darker meat. The cut was thigh with the skin on, sprinkled with a little sansho it was delicious. The pork came from the area around the Shimanto River which is in Kochi Prefecture on Shikoku Island,(google is my friend!).

Next was the sashimi, which was so good it didn’t have a fishy flavour. I know one was tuna but the others nobody stopped to tell me.

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Sashimi plate for one

Dessert, well lets just say it was smaller than expected and quite unusual, holiday time things should be a bit unusual. Interesting flavour the two pieces were about 2cm square and that high. There was more ice cream than cheesecake. I know Japanese desserts aren’t  usually big but this was a little disappointing. What should have been the star of the dish was upstaged by the support act. The Hibiki 17 Year Old was again fabulous!! So smooth and luscious, coating the mouth well. Perfect!

Then it was time to head back to the hotel picking up a night cap of sparkling sake(ok I thought it was a Japanese sparkling wine….must learn more Japanese!!!). Pull cap on it so didn’t need a corkscrew, good bubble, pours cloudy, almost looks like cloudy ammonia but tastes and smells a whole lot better. Dassai Sparkling 50.

Thus ends my first real dining experience for this trip. If I had to give a rating it would be 3.5 out of 5.

Thanks for dropping by and stay tuned for tomorrows adventures, (if it doesn’t rain).

Tokyo Day 1 2018 – Nippori and Yanaka

While the idea of and early arrival is good in theory, the hours before check in to your hotel can be very long.

This year is the first time I have flown in to Haneda airport, in the past it has always beeen Narita. I was a bit worried about getting in to Shiodome from Haneda but truth be told it was super easy. Hop the monorail to Hamatsucho, short walk to Daimon Toei Oedo Subway station then Next stop Shiodome. Which meant I was at the hotel just around 630am.

Seeing as I had so much time, I jumped on the Yamanote line to Nippori, had a coffee and snack at a Tullys, then decided to check out Yanaka. I only spent and hour there but will need to go back for more exploring. It is currently Ajisai(hydrangea) season and I was amazed to see some different varieties in the street gardens.

I walked back to Nippori and its famous Fabric Street. A whole street. With 100 shops selling everything you could need for sewing. As I was too busy looking at shops I only got one photo. You could do a lot of damage to your purse here if you sew.

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Looking along fabric street before opening time.

After 3 hours it was time to give the feet a rest and head back towards the hotel for lunch prior to official check in. I found a little theme restaurant called Kaiju Sakaba, (monster bar)based on amonster from Japanese TV shows.  Think Ultraman and similar shows from the late ‘60’s and the ‘70’s. Delicious lunch and cute monsters.

Then back to the hotel where my room was ready. After a six hour nap, (I know right naps are short, but I only had about 2-3 hours sleep on the plane), I needed dinner. A quick walk to Ginza, where I enjoyed a Hibiki 17 year old whisky before grabbing a couple of items at a conbini for a light dinner, plus a little something for a night cap.

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Night cap – Asahi peach flavoured and Suntory grape flavoured, light alcohol beverages

And that wraps my first day in Tokyo.

Thanks for dropping by!!

Back to Tokyo

Monday was my last day of work before moving. I was keeping an eye on all the travel and airline sites watching airfares to Tokyo. Wednesday I was able to get a price I was happy with so bit the bullet and booked myself for a couple of days away.

This trip I flew JAL. Good flight and service. I shed a few happy tears as we landed, bit silly but Tokyo is one of my happy places. Very quick through immigration and customs, around half an hour, which was a pleasant experience for a change. Bought my ticket for the Airport Limousine Bus which got me to the Mitsui Garden Ginza Premier hotel and then a short walk to where I am staying. Nice weather with a temperature of 32C when we landed.

This trip I am staying right in the heart of Ginza. A small hotel, Sotetsu Fresa Inn, two blocks back from the main street but still close to Shimbashi station. In fact I dare say it may be a shorter walk than from Shiodome. The room is small by western standards but for one person it is adequate and very comfortable.

After checking in it was time for a walk and dinner. I felt like tempura so headed to a regular restaurant I go to, Ginza Tenkuni. Only a 5 minute walk from the hotel so very handy.

Ginza Tenkuni

Perusing the menu I decided on a tempura don set. 2 tempura ebi(prawns), tempura whiting, tempura renkon(lotus root), tempura nasu(eggplant) and kakiage(small pieces of squid cooked in tempura batter) served on rice with sauce then poured over. This was accompanied by miso soup and pickles. A cup of hot green tea was also bought out. I ordered a glass of plum sake/umueshu on the rocks. This one wasn’t too sweet and was quite refreshing.

Tempura don, set A

Funny how I am not keen on miso soup back in Australia, but when I am in Tokyo I love it! This one was nice and dark with lots of flavour

Rich dark miso

After my delicious dinner, I took a walk around some regular spots in Ginza checking prices at the bottle shops, deciding what to get to take home. Quite surprised to see one of my favourite Japanese Whiskey’s not available at all. No Yamazaki anywhere! And the Hibiki limited to 1 per person.

A glass of Chassagne Montrachet at Ginza Felice, then back to the air conditioned comfort of my room.

Tomorrow I am contemplating Meiji Jingu and Yaskuni Jinja or a trip out to Omiya. Will decide over breakfast.

Catch you next time!

 

Geneva Day 4: Dinner at Aubrge d’Onex

Our venue for dinner was Auberge d’Onex, located in the suburb of Onex on the southern side of Geneva. Nestled amongst a lush garden, Auberge d’Onex  is housed in the building that was originally the clubhouse of the first golf club in Geneva. Cuisine is Italian and the owner/maître d’ is a very vivacious host.

Outside Auberge d'Onex
Outside Auberge d’Onex

Auberge d’Onex is a homely and cosy restaurant, dark wood exposed beams on the ceiling, floral curtains, white clothed tables with comfortable wooden chairs.

Inside Auberge d'Onex
Inside Auberge d’Onex

Red wine was the drink of the night, a lovely 3 year old Castello di Gabbiano Chianti Classico.

Chianti, no liver and fava beans though
Chianti, no liver and fava beans though

Baskets of bread were dotted around the table with some fantastic olive oil to dip it in. Antipasti was served from platters and included, grilled asparagus, grilled witlof, burrata cheese, artichokes, sausage, salamis, whitebait, grilled eggplant. My favourite had to be the burrata cheese, so creamy and soft. Servings were quite generous.

Antipasti
Antipasti, asparagus, witlof, burrata and sausage

Antipasti,eggplant, burrata and whitebait
Antipasti,eggplant, burrata and whitebait

Main was a large whole fish that the staff bought out on a trolley and served to us with some caponata. Not being much of a fish eater I had veal scallopine.

Fish with caponata
Fish with caponata

Before dessert bowls of peaches, plums, grapes, fresh dates, kiwi berries and small mangoes, were placed on the table.

plums and peaches
Plums, peaches and little mangoes

Kiwiberries
Kiwiberries

Fresh dates
Fresh dates

We had a choice of 6 desserts served from the dessert trolley. We were also offered grappa and house made Limoncello with dessert. I chose meringata and promptly forgot to take a photo, while Mr. CA4G had the tiramisu.

Tiramisu
Tiramisu

After a fabulous dinner it was back to the hotel for our final sleep in Geneva.

Geneva Day 3 Part 2 Dinner in Gruyeres

After visiting Maison Cailler it was time to head to the hill town of Gruyères where we were to have dinner. Located in the Canton of Fribourg, in the foothills of Mont  Moléson, the town is perched atop an 82metre hill. It was quite interesting to see snow on the nearby mountains even though it was the end of summer. The country side around the town was stunning, so green and lush.

Looking towards Gruyères
Looking towards Gruyères

Around Gruyères
Around Gruyères

Around Gruyères
Around Gruyères

It is a fascinating old town with many of the buildings being beautifully maintained in their original style. Cobble stone streets make for an interesting walk and not a walk I would want to attempt in high heels.

The town of Gruyères
The town of Gruyères

The town of Gruyères
The town of Gruyères

The town of Gruyères
The town of Gruyères

The largest building in the town is Chateau de Gruyères (castle) built between 1270 and 1282 and now home to a museum covering 800 years of architecture, art history and culture of the region.

Chateau de Gruyères
Chateau de Gruyères

Chateau de Gruyères
Chateau de Gruyères

Chateau de Gruyères
Chateau de Gruyères

Looking down to the Saane valley from the Chateau de Gruyères
Looking down to the Saane valley from the Chateau de Gruyères

Chateau St Germain, the second castle within the town, was acquired by the artist H.R. Giger and now houses the H.R. Giger Museum and the Giger Café/Bar. Sadly time did not allow for a visit to either museum, which gives us a reason for a return trip to do so.

Chateau St. Germain, H.R. Giger Museum
Chateau St. Germain, H.R. Giger Museum

Birthmachine Baby sculpture, Chateau St. Germain, H.R. Giger Museum
Birthmachine Baby, sculpture by H.R. Giger, Chateau St. Germain, H.R. Giger Museum

H.R> Giger Cafe/Bar through the window
H.R. Giger Cafe/Bar through the window

Gruyères is of course the area where that fabulous cheese of the same name comes from. Given that we were in Gruyères, it was only natural that dinner would be fondue. Our restaurant was Café – Restaurant des Remparts which, like many buildings in the town, is built in to the external wall of the town.

Cafe - Restaurant des Remparts
Cafe – Restaurant des Remparts

The outer walls of the town are situated on the edges of the hill and thus give amazing views out over the surrounding countryside. We were fortunate that the clouds parted and we were able to enjoy the view with a little sun before it set.

View from Restaurant des Remparts
View from Restaurant des Remparts

The interior of the restaurant is very traditional Swiss style. Lots of wood, red and white, lace and very homely touches. The ladies who served us were dressed fairly traditionally as well.

An entrée of salad and platters of cold meats with pickled onions and cornichons  was presented first, shortly followed by fondue of vacherin and Gruyère cheese.

Fondue
Fondue

While we usually have 2 or 3 fondues a year at home, it was a revelation to have it in Switzerland. Steamed chat potatoes are served along with bread cubes. The fondue itself was thick, cheesy and creamy and totally delicious. I think I will be searching for Vacherin cheese next winter to replace the Emmentaler I normally use in our fondue.

All that cheesy goodness was followed by a dessert of wonderful fresh berries, topped with luscious, thick Gruyères cream. The cream was served at the table by the waitress who came around with a wooden bowl that the cream had been set in and the scooped out with a paddle shaped spoon. I asked for just a little and was served around 1/3 of a cup. Very naughty but sooo good!!

Fresh berries and Gruyères cream
Fresh berries and Gruyères cream

Walking outside after dinner it was lovely to see the town lit up in the twilight.

Twilight in Gruyères
Twilight in Gruyères

Day 3 was a very long day and we returned to the hotel around 1030. It was however a very fascinating and fantastic day full of interesting things to see, learn and enjoy.

Geneva Day 3: St Imier, Broc and Gruyeres

Day 3 saw us with an extra early start. We had a 2 ½ hour drive to the dial factory, Cadrans Flückiger at St Imier in the Canton of Jura. Under grey skies and a light shower we boarded our bus and headed out of Geneva along the lake. Once we were out of the city we drove through beautiful green countryside with the occasional rainbow.

Wet and miserable morning
Wet and miserable morning

Rainbow on our way
Rainbow on our way

Cadrans Flückiger S.A. is a subsidiary company of Patek Philippe. They specialize in the manufacture and finishing of dials. Not only do they make dials for Patek Philippe, they also do dials for companies such as Audemars Piguet and IWC, among others. It was fascinating to learn that a dial can have anywhere from 40 to 70 processes applied to it and can take up to 3 months to make.

Cadrans Flückiger
Cadrans Flückiger

Dial enamelling and guilloché engraving are also carried out at Cadrans Flückiger and we were fortunate to be able to see the artisans working at both techniques. Enameling is very pretty but the amount of work involved explains why the pricing can be quite a bit more for an enamel dial watch. The engraving studio also had several guilloché machines dating back to the 1800’s still being used.

Cadrans Flückiger
Cadrans Flückiger

Lunch was at the Hotel Beau Rivage Neuchatel,a hotel we stayed at several years ago. Not associated with the Beau Rivage Geneva, this stately hotel is also situated by a lake, Lake Neuchatel to be precise. It was nice to return even if for a little while.

Beau Rivage Neuchatel
Beau Rivage Neuchatel

Beau Rivage Neuchatel
Beau Rivage Neuchatel

Memories of our dinner on our last visit had us anticipating the wonderful lunch that awaited us.

Beau Rivage Neuchatel, menu
Beau Rivage Neuchatel, menu

Beau Rivage Neuchatel, menu
Beau Rivage Neuchatel, menu

The wild mushrooms in puff pastry were very tasty and the freshness of the mushrooms was evident in the level of flavor.

Wild mushrooms in puff pastry
Wild mushrooms in puff pastry

Main course was a simple prepared chicken supreme, with vegetables and a chorizo cream sauce. The sauce had a nice spiciness to it.

Chicken with chorizo sauce
Chicken with chorizo sauce

Dessert was an apple tart tatin, beautifully presented and very delicious!

Tarte Tatin
Tarte Tatin

After lunch we had time for a quick walk outside.

Neuchatel
Neuchatel

Neuchatel
Neuchatel

After our fantastic lunch it was back on to the bus. Our next destination was a visit to the chocolate factory of Maison Cailler, located in the town of Broc, situated in the mountains of the La Gruyere region. Now part of the Nestle Group, Maison Cailler was founded in the early 1800’s by Francois-Lois Cailler. Over the next 100 or so years the manufacturing of chocolate was perfected with the ultimate secret to creaminess being the use of condensed milk made with the high quality milk from the cows of the region.

Maison Cailler
Maison Cailler

Maison Cailler
Maison Cailler

Maison Cailler
Maison Cailler

We took part in a tour of the factory which started with a series of rooms, each depicting a different period in the history of chocolate. From the Aztecs to the Conquisatadors, the arrival of chocolate in Europe, right up to the founding of Maison Cailler and the 20th century. Very interesting and well presented.

History of Maison Cailler
History of Maison Cailler

History of Maison Cailler
History of Maison Cailler

Old labels at Maison Cailler
Old labels at Maison Cailler

Aztec room, Maison Cailler tour
Aztec room, Maison Cailler tour

Aztec room, Maison Cailler tour
Aztec room, Maison Cailler tour

Conquistador room, Maison Cailler tour
Conquistador room, Maison Cailler tour

Arrival of chocolate into Europe trhough Spain
Arrival of chocolate into Europe trhough Spain

The search for the perfect location for Maison Cailler
The search for the perfect location for Maison Cailler

After the history rooms you start in to the factory proper. Glass walls separate the factory from the tour area where displays and samples of ingredients are arranged. An audio device is given to each tour member at the start and when held to an icon at each display, you learn more about the ingredients and where they are from. There is also information on the farmers/growers and their locations in the world.

Diagram of chocolte processing
Diagram of chocolte processing

Cailler "Branches" in production
Cailler “Branches” in production

Maison Cailler Factory
Maison Cailler Factory

Maison Cailler Factory
Maison Cailler Factory

And of course you can’t finish a chocolate factory tour without trying some freshly made chocolate. There were around a dozen samples to taste. Thankfully I only tried 4 which was quite sufficient.

TIme for a taste
TIme for a taste

We also had time for a bit of chocolate retail therapy.

Shopping at Maison Cailler
Shopping at Maison Cailler

Wall of chocolate at Maison Cailler
Wall of chocolate at Maison Cailler

This ends part 1 of Day 3 part two will see us head to the historic for town of Gruyeres for dinner.

 

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