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Cooking Across 4 Generations

Using recipes collected from 4 generations of one family

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Where I shop for food, knives, kitchen equipment in Sydney and anywhere else in the big wide world.

Tsukiji Fish Market, Tokyo

Seeing as our recent week in Tokyo was my fourth time there, I figured I should really make the effort to visit Tsukiji Fish Market. I especially wanted to go this time as soon Tsukiji will be history. In the next few years the Tokyo Metro Government will be relocating the market to make way for construction of a tunnel and highrise apartments in time for the Olympics in 2020. This seems like a sad thing to do to a market that is considered the beating heart of the worldwide spread of sushi culture and has nearly 80 years of history behind it.

Tsukiji market from the street
Tsukiji market from the street
Tsukiji main entrance
Tsukiji main entrance

A short walk from bustling Shiodome and Ginza, Tsukiji Fish Market is a bit scruffy around the edges and definitely showing its age. Set on around 50 acres of land the market has several distinct parts. The main auction area which is off limits to visitors, the trading floor where the restaurants, caterers and fish shops buy, which is open to the public after 900am, the fruit and vegetable market and the outer market where little (and I mean little) restaurants are located next to shops selling fruit and vegetables, knives, kitchen equipment, tea, seaweeds, pickles and many other food products.

MMMMM kniiives!!!
MMMMM kniiives!!!
Kitchen ware store
Kitchen ware store

It took 3 attempts for me to visit the market. Monday the market was closed for a public holiday, Tuesday I was very early and ended up being politely asked to leave as visitors aren’t admitted before 900am. Wednesday was windy but I made my way down again and got there around 1000am. Unfortunately most of the action was over, I think I should have gotten there at 900am. I was able to get a few photos of some of the amazing seafood available.

Boxes of fish ready to be picked up for delivery to restaurants:

Fish wrapped and iced for delivery
Fish wrapped and iced for delivery
Boxes of fish redy for pick up
Boxes of fish ready for pick up

Danger lurks everywhere within the market compound and pedestrians do not have right of way. Little pallet carts zip around so you have to constantly be on your guard or run the risk of being hit.

Delivery cart
Delivery cart
Delivery cart loaded up
Delivery cart loaded up

While I saw quite a few dealers with unagi, in various stages of preparation, I stumbled across a fishmonger with live eel in various sizes. The ones in the photo were about 5cm long, and squirming like mad. The fishmonger was in the process of changing the water when I took the photo.

Unagi
Unagi

Not only were there vendors of scallops, fresh and frozen out of the shell, there were crates of live scallops every couple of stores.

Live scallops
Live scallops

Something I have only really heard about but never actually seen was the horseneck clam. These are a clam that have a syphon that isn’t able to fully retract back in to the shell. Looking at some photos of them on google was an eye opening search, some of them get sooo big!

Horseneck clams
Horseneck clams

Whelks,abalones in many different sizes(little ones bottom right) and other varieties of molluscs abounded:

Whelks
Whelks
Molluscs galore
Molluscs galore

Hairy crabs all trussed up. I had seen another variety of these on TV but was amazed to see these ones up close. Such fine little clumps of “hair” all over them and such a pretty colour combination. These ones look like they have had a buzz cut, there are hairier ones in the ocean:

Hairy crabs
Hairy crabs

Of course, the ubiquitous Fugu was at the market, a little early in the season for them, peak season is late autumn and winter. I didn’t realise that fugu are now harvested after spawning in spring and moved to floating cages in the Pacific Ocean to grow to maturity. This is to protect the fugu population, nice bit of aquaculture. Fugu is the only food the Japanese Emperor is forbidden to eat, for his personal safety.

Fugu
Fugu

Live lobsters, these were not very big and I assume that the price was per kilogram:

Lobsters and crayfish
Lobsters and crayfish

These live ebi(prawns) were certainly jumping around in their baskets:

Ebi also known as prawns
Ebi also known as prawns

The fruit and vegetable market was also amazing to see. Have you ever seen one mushroom that costs around $70? I was shocked when I did the conversion to AUD$. Beside the big one are two trays with 7 mushrooms for around $60!!! Must be some fantastic tasting mushrooms!

Look at those prices!!
Look at those prices!!

If you look to the top right you can see some rather square looking persimmons. Square persimmons were in a lot of shops this year, even the local supermarket near our hotel had them. There are some trays of mushrooms in this photo for around $90, $120, $130 and $160!!!

For these prices I hope they have a little 'magic' included
For these prices I hope they have a little ‘magic’ included

Also in the fruit and vegetable section was a huge variety of baby flowers and leaves for garnishing, pine needles, gingko leaves and nuts, maple leaves and the cutest baby turnips. Everything is beautifully packaged and the one thing I regret not getting a photo of was a watermelon with a belt/handle woven from fibers of some kind. Most of the mushroom boxes were made of wood and then lined with straw.

Garnishes and baby turnips
Garnishes and baby turnips
Leaves for garnishes
Leaves for garnishes
Flowers and gingko nuts
Flowers, Cape Gooseberries and gingko nuts

Of course there was plenty of wasabi  around too. Ordinarily I would have expected the price to be the same, however the price varies depending on the size and grade.

Wasabi and other vegetables
Wasabi and other vegetables

After doing your looking around, you can drop in to any of the little restaurants in the outer market for some super fresh sushi and sashimi or a nice piping hot bowl of noodles before doing a little shopping for some plates, knives, kitchen goods or matcha (green tea).

Should we get back to Tokyo next year and Tsukiji is still open I think I will visit again and time it a bit better to get a bit more of the action. I really enjoyed my visit and it was great to see seafood that I have really only heard about. If you happen to get to Tokyo before the market moves you really should drop in for a look around and if you are avoiding because you think fish market equals fishy smell, don’t worry the market is super clean and there is no fishy smell at all.

A Little Shopping In Tokyo

Recently we had a visit to one of our favourite cities in the world, Tokyo. One thing that I go out of my way to purchase when visiting Tokyo is hand made knives. I love Japanese knives so much that all my household knives and most of my work knives are now Japanese.

Usually I shop for my knives in the many shops on Kappabashi Dori in Asakusa. Our first stop though when we get to Asakusa is always Senso-Ji.

After walking through the magnificent Kaminarimon (Thunder Gate) you get to the 200m Nakamise Dori. Filled with shops selling various snack foods and all sorts of touristy bits and pieces (yukata, fans, knick knacks etc) Nakamise Dori has a history going back several centuries. It is not only foreign tourists buying the mementos, but many Japanese who may only visit once in their lifetime are also buying up bits and pieces to take home. After walking through Nakamise Dori you will reach the Hozomon Gate behind which is the magnificent Temple main Hall, the five story pagoda, gorgeously landscaped gardens and many smaller shrines and temples.

Kaminarimon Gate, Senso-Ji, Asakusa
Kaminarimon Gate, Senso-Ji, Asakusa
Nakamise Dori
Nakamise Dori
Hozomon Gate
Hozomon Gate
Senso-Ji Temple
Senso-Ji Temple
5 story pagoda
5 story pagoda

We particularly like to visit during late October/early November when the chrysantemum displays are on. Some of the chrysanthemums are the size of a bread and butter plate in diameter and then nearly 10 cm high. A lot of them need support, which you can see in the photo below.

You don't see chrysanthemums like this in Australia very often
You don’t see chrysanthemums like this in Australia very often

After our stroll through the temple grounds we have a wander in the backstreets before heading back to Asakusa Dori and over to Kappabashi Dori.

Back streets, Asakusa
Back streets, Asakusa
Back streets Asakusa
Back streets, Asakusa

After a short walk you hit kitchen ware heaven!!! A whole street devoted to kitchenware, equipment for commercial kitchens, knife shops, restaurant furnishing shops. Basically anything you can think of that a restaurant might need and then some extras thrown in.

some of the shops along Kappabashi Dori, Asakusa
Some of the shops along Kappabashi Dori, Asakusa
Interior Kitchen supply shop, Kappabashi Dori, Asakusa
Interior, Kitchen supply shop, Kappabashi Dori, Asakusa
INterior coffee supply shop, Kappabashi Dori, Asakusa
Interior, coffee supply shop, Kappabashi Dori, Asakusa
Knife shop, Kappabashi Dori,  Asakusa
Knife shop, Kappabashi Dori, Asakusa
Kitchen ware shop Kappabashi Dori, Asakusa
Kitchen ware shop Kappabashi Dori, Asakusa

Unfortunately this year the weather was quite incliment so our visit to Kappabashi Dori was quite short.

I did get a new knife surprisingly at Mitsukoshi Department store in Ginza. On the eighth floor amongst the home wares and household goods, Mitsukoshi stocks a range of ceramics, metalware, glass and knives made by skilled artisans. The day we went they had Yusui Nakanishi from Takeda Hamono Blacksmith showing a range of knives and offering sharpening. I ended up buying myself a Deba Bocho. The blade is made with a very high carbon content steel which gives the blade a sexy black colour. It is VERY sharp and as yet I haven’t used it. Still just looking at it.

Deba Bocho from Takeda Hamono
Deba Bocho from Takeda Hamono

Also in Ginza we stumbled upon lots of little shops selling artisan made products. One at which we did shop was filled with wooden items, bowls, trays, chopsticks, cups, and much more. We settled on 2 pairs of chopsticks one in red and the other in black. They are even dishwasher safe. This shop was a little treasure house of beautiful pieces to either display or use. We will be going back on our next visit for some of the bowls and cups. They were even beautifully packaged in paper to match the current season.

Me outside the shop we bought chopsticks
Me outside the shop we bought chopsticks
Shiny new chopsticks
Shiny new chopsticks

My final purchase this year I made on my visit to Tsukiji Fish Market. Amongst the shops in the outer market was a small one selling ceramic goods. They stocked mass produced items and some artisanl ones. Some of the tea cups were over $100. After a good 20 minutes trying to decide what to buy, I settled on two of the classic rectangle plates for sushi. These were a bargain at ¥290 (about A$3) each. Just as well I only bought two as I would have needed another suitcase.

My $3 plates from the fish market.
My $3 plates from the fish market.

Only a little shopping experience this time but next time I will prepare and have a list of things to buy, just wont take too much in the suitcase.

Below is a shot of my knives for home, the ones on each side were bought here in Australia at The Chef’s Armoury in Rosebery and the other 3 in the middle were bought in Tokyo and Kyoto

L-R M-Custa, Takeda Hamono, Aritsugu(Kyoto), Last two not sure
L-R: M-Custa, Takeda Hamono, Aritsugu(Kyoto), Last two not sure

Thanks for dropping buy to see what I bought in Tokyo this year.

Around the World Part 3 – Zurich

Leaving London behind we flew across the channel to Switzerland and our next port of call Zurich.

Coming in to Zurich
Coming in to Zurich

We stayed at the Swissotel, located at Oerlikon, just out of the city centre, a short tram ride was all it took to get to the city centre. A 24 hour pass for trains, buses and trams was around A$10 a person, it also allowed us to take some of the river taxis if we had felt like it. The Swissotel has an amazing pool located on the top floor giving panoramic views of Zurich and the country side around it, right out to the alps in the distance.

The breakfast buffet in the Swissotel is very extensive and a great range of food for all tastes is available. I counted 18 bread and bakery items, unfortunately that is too much for me to work my way through. There is also a vibrant bar and restaurant in the Swissotel, which we unfortunatley didn’t have a chance to try out, next time.

Twice a week the square behind the Swissotel becomes a fruit, vegetable and flower market, with some stalls also offering preserves made from their own produce. I wish I had taken my camera down as there were varieties that we don’t see here in Australia. It would also have been nice to have been able to have cooked with some of the offerings. Also handy was a supermarket where you could get some groceries and incredibly cheap mineral water. San Pellegrino 1litre for about A$1.05, back here it costs just over A$3.

Zurich City has a population of 400,00 within the city and 1.83 million in the whole canton(state). Which makes it a nice size to get around. After catching the tram in we just walked. So many beautiful old buildings with interesting architectural details. I really loved looking at the roof detailing on the buildings, so much more interesting than the triangle shape we mainly have in Australia. Lots of little streets to wander and explore. So many small jewellery makers located around town which was great to see. Craft skills seemed to be taken more seriously in Switzerland, whether it be jewellery making, lace making etc.

Lane way Zurich
Lane way Zurich
Limmat Quai
Limmat Quai

We ate in the old town area several times. On two occasions having fondue at Adler’s Swiss Chuchi and also dined in a Bierhalle. While R tried some local beers I worked my way through the local white wines. A shame we have trouble sourcing Swiss wines here in Australia as they were very good. Down by Quaibrucke is a stand selling some great hotdogs and wurstli, just perfect for a quick lunch. Should you need chocolate there is no shortage of stores and cafes.

Inside our favourite bierehalle
Inside our favourite bierehalle
Worked my way through most of the whites
Worked my way through most of the whites

Wandering the cobblestone streets, walking beside the river and lake was a really enjoyable experience. No-one seemed to be rushing and everyone was polite.

Street in Zurich
Street in Zurich
River side
River side
Across the lake to the Alps
Across the lake to the Alps

Sitting having a cocktail in a square in the old town was a nice way to relax.

Cocktails to wind down after a big day exploring
Cocktails to wind down after a big day exploring

We also got to see a Youth Marching Band festival and a watersports festival which seemed to consist of teams on boats jousting. Obviously the winner was the one who didn’t get knocked in the river.

Solothurn Jugendmusik.
Solothurn Jugendmusik.
Water jousting
Water jousting
Water jousting
Water jousting

While Zurich has a long history there is plenty of new construction happening. But the real joy is exploring the old buildings and churches.

Looking up river with Grossmunster on the left
Looking up river with Grossmunster on the left
New construction going in
New construction going in
Grossmunster
Grossmunster
The steeple of Fraumunster
The steeple of Fraumunster

 

The steeple of St Peter Church.
The steeple of St Peter Church.
Grossmunster
Grossmunster

We had a great time in Zurich and I look forward to heading there again in the future.

As they say in Zurich Vielen Dank for stopping by!


Around The World Part 2: Ol’ Blighty

After a quick 5 days in New York we said goodbye to the Big Apple and took an over night flight to London on BA. Arriving early in the morning we got through customs and immigration relatively fast and then hopped in an iconic black cab to go to the city. Um we forgot to factor in peak hour traffic. Cab fare was £80 and took nearly an hour and a half. All the grass and trees were so green, even heading in to the city there was a lot of green.

We checked in to the conveniently located Marylebone Hotel( part of the Doyle Collection) which is located close to Oxford Street. I really liked the hotel apart from the lighting in the bathrooms. I call it a man’s hotel as it is suited to those who don’t need to apply make up or shave their legs. But lighting aside it is a comfortable and fantastic hotel. After checking in and freshening up, we decided to hit the asphalt to let R get his bearings again and to start sightseeing/shopping. Looking at a map does not give you any indication of how far things really are. For example I thought Buckingham Palace was going to be a long way from our hotel when in fact we were able to walk there in 10 minutes.

Our first trek found us heading to the luxury heaven that is New Bond Street-Old Bond street and around. After a quick reconnoiter R tells me we can walk to Buckingham Palace, did I want to go now. My answer: Is Elizabeth Windsor the Queen? So we walked along Piccadilly past The Ritz then through Green Park(yes it was very green) we get to the other side and there are some road blocks and lots of people milling about. Hmmm something is happening. We hear brass instruments start playing and then we see the bobbing brass and bearskin helmets as the Changing of the Guard finishes and they march off down Horse Guards Parade.

Changing of the Guard

After watching the soldiers march out we took a stroll down Oxford street and browsed the shops.

On Thursday we decided to explore the area around our hotel. We also had an invitation to the official launch of the Coast London flagship store on Oxford Street. I was very lucky to get invites to this. Coast were having a competition for the evening gala opening alas it was only for residents of the UK. So I sent them an email explaining we would be there at the same time and they entered me in the competition anyway. Didn’t win for the evening, but they put our names down for the day time opening. So I threw on my Coast dress, put some make up on and off we went. Red carpet, champagne and pretty frocks. What more can you ask for.

After the opening we needed some lunch. We stumbled across Wigmore Hall Restaurant and Bar located in the lower ground floor of Wigmore Hall in Wigmore Street just behind Oxford Street. Originally built as a recital hall by the Bechstein piano company Wigmore Hall still maintains a solid reputation of great performances. And not only do the great performances happen on stage but the restaurant is fantastic too. Taking advantage of a three course lunch deal for £20 we had a delicious meal.

Friday we got dressed up and headed for lunch at Claridges (see seperate post) with an afternoon of window shopping around Oxford Street, New and Old Bond Street, Piccadilly, and Regent Street. We also bought some theatre tickets for Sunday night to go see Rock of Ages. Friday afternoon we got changed and walked over to Westminster to see the houses of Parliament, Elizabeth Tower/Big Ben, which we got to hear chime. On the way we “stumbled” across the National Gallery and Trafalgar Square. We had a quick look in the NG and as with the Met in NYC we were blown away by the amazing collections hanging on the walls. You could spend 2 days wandering around the gallery.

Nelson’s Column and Trafalgar Square
Nelson’s Column The Fourth PlinthPowerless Structures Fig 101 by Elmgreen and Dragset and Trafalgar Square
Me and a lion, Trafalgar Square
National Gallery, Trafalgar Square

Saturday saw us take the tube from Baker Street (yes the one that Sherlock Holmes “lived” in) around to Tower Hill. We walked over to The Tower of London and had a look and saw the iconic London Bridge.

Tower of London
London Bridge definitely not falling down

We then walked to St Paul’s Cathedral, which unfortunately was closed for an ordination of Deacons. St Paul’s was MASSIVE, I know it is now dwarfed by skyscrapers but it is still an amazing building, quite took my breath away.

St Paul’s Cathedral
St Paul’s Cathedral
St Paul’s Cathedral
Me at St Paul’s Cathedral
St Paul’s Cathedral from 1 New Change

Then we wandered over to 1 New Change for lunch at Gordon Ramsay’s Bread Street Kitchen (see seperate post). We decided to walk back to the hotel along the Thames Embankment to Westminster and from there back to the hotel. We passed Millenium Bridge, Tate Modern, saw the London Eye and enjoyed the walk along the river. Thank goodness I wore flat shoes

Millenium Bridge, Tate Modern
Long the Embankment The Shard in the background
Along the Embankment looking toward Westminster

Past Westminster we saw Scotland Yard, walked past the Royal Academy of Engineering then in to St James’ Park where we saw SQUIRRELS!!! Yay so cute, I was even quick enough to trick one and touch it. I was quite jealous when R came back from his trip to London several years ago and said he had seen and touched one. There were so many of them and so many different types of birds in and around St James’ Park Lake, it was quite remarkable that so much wildlife was in the middle of the city.. St James’ Park was very nice to stroll through and it got us back to Buckingham Palace and then to the hotel. Huge walk, at least we walked off lunch. After a bit of a rest we went down to the bar and then for dinner at Le Relais de Venise-L’Entrecote (see separate post).

Squirrel
Squirrels St James’ Park
The St James’ Park Lake
St James’ Park Lake looking towards Buckingham Palace

After a busy Saturday we spent most of Sunday window shopping, had lunch atGordon Ramsay’s Maze and relaxed before going to the theatre to see Rock of Ages. Great show, and they had some technical difficulties at the start of part 2 but worked it in to the show and made light of it, true professionalism. The theatre was the Shaftesbury Theatre in Shaftesbury Avenue and was a little walk from the hotel. I still have to see the cinematic adaptation of Rock of Ages.

Stage for Rock of Ages
Inside the Shaftesbury Theatre

Monday was a little drizzly when we headed out. The mission was to have lunch at Nobu and find Berkeley Square. Call me sentimental but I am a huge Dame Vera Lynn fan. My Nan got me hooked and I really wanted to get of photo of me in Berkeley Square for her. Nobu is just along from Berkeley Square so we got to kill two birds with one stone. R had been in 2008 so he wanted me to go there with him. We arrived early and got our orders and soon after the business lunch brigade started coming in. So many finance conversations going on around us.

Tempura Prawns Nobu London
Sushi and Sashimi Nobu London
Yakitori Nobu London
Interior Nobu London

After lunch R went back to the hotel and I had a wander around, stumbled upon the centre of hip during the 1960’s, Carnaby Street, got to go try some pretty frocks on, visited the Faberge Boutique, Asprey, Wartski Jewellers, Garrard and walked past the glorious windows of Graff, Moussaieff, Leviev, Solange Azagury-Partridge, and a few other high end jewellery stores. Then it was back to the hotel for a rest before heading out for dinner with some watch friends of R’s at Tamarind (see other post).

Carnaby Street

Tuesday saw us packing again ready for our flight to Zurich. We decided to book a car through the hotel which was a good idea as it was only £60 and there was a bit of traffic on our way out to the airport. The weirdest part of being in London was dusk. Not something we are used to here in Australia, but having light at 10pm was quite strange in a good way.

Pop back to see Around The World Part III: Zurich.

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