Leaving London behind we flew across the channel to Switzerland and our next port of call Zurich.
Coming in to Zurich
We stayed at the Swissotel, located at Oerlikon, just out of the city centre, a short tram ride was all it took to get to the city centre. A 24 hour pass for trains, buses and trams was around A$10 a person, it also allowed us to take some of the river taxis if we had felt like it. The Swissotel has an amazing pool located on the top floor giving panoramic views of Zurich and the country side around it, right out to the alps in the distance.
The breakfast buffet in the Swissotel is very extensive and a great range of food for all tastes is available. I counted 18 bread and bakery items, unfortunately that is too much for me to work my way through. There is also a vibrant bar and restaurant in the Swissotel, which we unfortunatley didn’t have a chance to try out, next time.
Twice a week the square behind the Swissotel becomes a fruit, vegetable and flower market, with some stalls also offering preserves made from their own produce. I wish I had taken my camera down as there were varieties that we don’t see here in Australia. It would also have been nice to have been able to have cooked with some of the offerings. Also handy was a supermarket where you could get some groceries and incredibly cheap mineral water. San Pellegrino 1litre for about A$1.05, back here it costs just over A$3.
Zurich City has a population of 400,00 within the city and 1.83 million in the whole canton(state). Which makes it a nice size to get around. After catching the tram in we just walked. So many beautiful old buildings with interesting architectural details. I really loved looking at the roof detailing on the buildings, so much more interesting than the triangle shape we mainly have in Australia. Lots of little streets to wander and explore. So many small jewellery makers located around town which was great to see. Craft skills seemed to be taken more seriously in Switzerland, whether it be jewellery making, lace making etc.
Lane way ZurichLimmat Quai
We ate in the old town area several times. On two occasions having fondue at Adler’s Swiss Chuchi and also dined in a Bierhalle. While R tried some local beers I worked my way through the local white wines. A shame we have trouble sourcing Swiss wines here in Australia as they were very good. Down by Quaibrucke is a stand selling some great hotdogs and wurstli, just perfect for a quick lunch. Should you need chocolate there is no shortage of stores and cafes.
Inside our favourite bierehalleWorked my way through most of the whites
Wandering the cobblestone streets, walking beside the river and lake was a really enjoyable experience. No-one seemed to be rushing and everyone was polite.
Street in ZurichRiver sideAcross the lake to the Alps
Sitting having a cocktail in a square in the old town was a nice way to relax.
Cocktails to wind down after a big day exploring
We also got to see a Youth Marching Band festival and a watersports festival which seemed to consist of teams on boats jousting. Obviously the winner was the one who didn’t get knocked in the river.
Part of the reason for our trip to Zurich was to go and visit the workshops of two high end, independent watchmakers, Greubel Forsey and Kari Voutilainen. This meant we would need to have an over night stay close to La Chaux-de-Fonds and Môtiers. Consulting Google we decided our base would be Neuchâtel and our accomodation the Beau Rivage Hotel. As we were being picked up and driven from Zurich to go to La Chaux-de-Fonds and then to Neuchâtel, it would only be a short return train trip for us to Môtiers.
Lac de Neuchâtel
The Beau Rivage Hotel is located on the edge of Lake Neuchâtel (AKA lac de Neuchâtel in French and Neuenburgersee in German) with views of the Lake and the Alps in the distance. Originally a grand town house of great elegance built in 1862, during the first part of the 20th century it was home to a famous restaurant, the building was entirely renovated in 1993 to become the first 5-star hotel of the Three Lakes region. The Beau Rivage is a member of Relais & Chateau and is rated as 5 étoiles Supérieure, Gault Millau rating 14, and is in Guide Michelin.
Beau Rivage, NeuchâtelBeau Rivage, bar and terraceView from our room
Our room
After a full day visiting Greubel Forsey and touring the magnificent Musée d’Horlogerie du Locle, housed in the historic Château des Monts at Le Locle, we arrived at the Beau Rivage, checked in, freshened up and had a walk around the town. With Neuchâtel being in the heart of Switzerland’s watchmaking mecca it was not surprising to find watch references around town. Beautiful old buildings abound and the views of the lake and alps are spectacular. Someone was even water skiing which got me a bit jealous.
After our walk we went to dine in the hotel’s Restaurant O Terroirs. As the evening was spectacularly mild we were given the choice of dining on the lake side veranda or inside. Of course we decided outside would be nicer. Watching the sunset over Lake Neuchâtel while the dying rays of the sun tint the majestic Swiss Alps in shades of pink and grey while having a wonderful meal is truly a memory I won’t forget. Thanks to Greubel Forsey for our diner.
Sun setting on the alps, looking across Lake Neuchâtel
First up was an amuse bouche of crab, tomato and avocado….
Amuse bouche of crab and
Mr. CA4G had an entree of seared foie gras…..
Foie gras, tempura onion rings, asparagus
I enjoyed a “cigar” of egg plant filled with goat curd, on a lemon sponge, olive oil ice cream…..
“cigar” of eggplant filled with goat curd
For mains Mr. CA4G had lamb three ways, cutlet, loin, merguez sausage, with cous cous, while I opted for duck meat balls, proscuitto, potato crisps, artichokes……
Lamb three waysDuck meat balls
Having had dessert at lunch we opted for cheese, all local to the region….
Local artisanal cheese board
As we were finishing our meal, the clouds rolled in, and a spectacular sound and light show(storm) rolled across the lake.
The next morning was light but drizzly. We had a lovely buffet breakfast in the hotel and caught our first Swiss cab to the station. Now my French isn’t the best and I do know how to ask for “two return tickets to Môtiers” unfortunately I don’t know the French for “which platform”. Luckily for us a young Swiss man spoke good English and was able to direct us. The train to Môtiers takes about 40 minutes from Neuchâtel, passing through lush green fields and mountains, stopping at several lovely little towns. Arriving at Môtiers, we were met at the station by Kari Voutilainen and walked to his house a short way from the station. Not knowing much about Môtiers, we were surprised to find it was (and still is) a town with a history of Absinth production, apart from watch production. After a leisurely tour through Kari’s Atelier looking at his watches and production, he took us to lunch in the local cafe/hall/beer house. Unfortunately no photos, but we had the special of the day which was Chilli con carne( I know you, go all the way to Switzerland to have chilli con carne, but it was GOOD), followed by creme brulee. Seriously good, must be all that fabulous Swiss cream and free range eggs.
Bovet Absinth distillery, Môtiers
Saying good bye to Môtiers, we headed back to Neuchâtel to catch our train to Zurich. As the train wound its way through the country side we saw many vineyards that produce some great Swiss wines.
Thanks for dropping in!! Look out for my Zurich report.
After a quick 5 days in New York we said goodbye to the Big Apple and took an over night flight to London on BA. Arriving early in the morning we got through customs and immigration relatively fast and then hopped in an iconic black cab to go to the city. Um we forgot to factor in peak hour traffic. Cab fare was £80 and took nearly an hour and a half. All the grass and trees were so green, even heading in to the city there was a lot of green.
We checked in to the conveniently located Marylebone Hotel( part of the Doyle Collection) which is located close to Oxford Street. I really liked the hotel apart from the lighting in the bathrooms. I call it a man’s hotel as it is suited to those who don’t need to apply make up or shave their legs. But lighting aside it is a comfortable and fantastic hotel. After checking in and freshening up, we decided to hit the asphalt to let R get his bearings again and to start sightseeing/shopping. Looking at a map does not give you any indication of how far things really are. For example I thought Buckingham Palace was going to be a long way from our hotel when in fact we were able to walk there in 10 minutes.
Our first trek found us heading to the luxury heaven that is New Bond Street-Old Bond street and around. After a quick reconnoiter R tells me we can walk to Buckingham Palace, did I want to go now. My answer: Is Elizabeth Windsor the Queen? So we walked along Piccadilly past The Ritz then through Green Park(yes it was very green) we get to the other side and there are some road blocks and lots of people milling about. Hmmm something is happening. We hear brass instruments start playing and then we see the bobbing brass and bearskin helmets as the Changing of the Guard finishes and they march off down Horse Guards Parade.
Changing of the Guard
After watching the soldiers march out we took a stroll down Oxford street and browsed the shops.
On Thursday we decided to explore the area around our hotel. We also had an invitation to the official launch of the Coast London flagship store on Oxford Street. I was very lucky to get invites to this. Coast were having a competition for the evening gala opening alas it was only for residents of the UK. So I sent them an email explaining we would be there at the same time and they entered me in the competition anyway. Didn’t win for the evening, but they put our names down for the day time opening. So I threw on my Coast dress, put some make up on and off we went. Red carpet, champagne and pretty frocks. What more can you ask for.
After the opening we needed some lunch. We stumbled across Wigmore Hall Restaurant and Bar located in the lower ground floor of Wigmore Hall in Wigmore Street just behind Oxford Street. Originally built as a recital hall by the Bechstein piano company Wigmore Hall still maintains a solid reputation of great performances. And not only do the great performances happen on stage but the restaurant is fantastic too. Taking advantage of a three course lunch deal for £20 we had a delicious meal.
Friday we got dressed up and headed for lunch at Claridges (see seperate post) with an afternoon of window shopping around Oxford Street, New and Old Bond Street, Piccadilly, and Regent Street. We also bought some theatre tickets for Sunday night to go see Rock of Ages. Friday afternoon we got changed and walked over to Westminster to see the houses of Parliament, Elizabeth Tower/Big Ben, which we got to hear chime. On the way we “stumbled” across the National Gallery and Trafalgar Square. We had a quick look in the NG and as with the Met in NYC we were blown away by the amazing collections hanging on the walls. You could spend 2 days wandering around the gallery.
Nelson’s Column and Trafalgar SquareNelson’s Column The Fourth PlinthPowerless Structures Fig 101 by Elmgreen and Dragset and Trafalgar SquareMe and a lion, Trafalgar SquareNational Gallery, Trafalgar Square
Saturday saw us take the tube from Baker Street (yes the one that Sherlock Holmes “lived” in) around to Tower Hill. We walked over to The Tower of London and had a look and saw the iconic London Bridge.
Tower of LondonLondon Bridge definitely not falling down
We then walked to St Paul’s Cathedral, which unfortunately was closed for an ordination of Deacons. St Paul’s was MASSIVE, I know it is now dwarfed by skyscrapers but it is still an amazing building, quite took my breath away.
St Paul’s CathedralSt Paul’s CathedralSt Paul’s CathedralMe at St Paul’s CathedralSt Paul’s Cathedral from 1 New Change
Then we wandered over to 1 New Change for lunch at Gordon Ramsay’s Bread Street Kitchen (see seperate post). We decided to walk back to the hotel along the Thames Embankment to Westminster and from there back to the hotel. We passed Millenium Bridge, Tate Modern, saw the London Eye and enjoyed the walk along the river. Thank goodness I wore flat shoes
Millenium Bridge, Tate ModernLong the Embankment The Shard in the backgroundAlong the Embankment looking toward Westminster
Past Westminster we saw Scotland Yard, walked past the Royal Academy of Engineering then in to St James’ Park where we saw SQUIRRELS!!! Yay so cute, I was even quick enough to trick one and touch it. I was quite jealous when R came back from his trip to London several years ago and said he had seen and touched one. There were so many of them and so many different types of birds in and around St James’ Park Lake, it was quite remarkable that so much wildlife was in the middle of the city.. St James’ Park was very nice to stroll through and it got us back to Buckingham Palace and then to the hotel. Huge walk, at least we walked off lunch. After a bit of a rest we went down to the bar and then for dinner at Le Relais de Venise-L’Entrecote (see separate post).
SquirrelSquirrels St James’ ParkThe St James’ Park LakeSt James’ Park Lake looking towards Buckingham Palace
After a busy Saturday we spent most of Sunday window shopping, had lunch atGordon Ramsay’s Maze and relaxed before going to the theatre to see Rock of Ages. Great show, and they had some technical difficulties at the start of part 2 but worked it in to the show and made light of it, true professionalism. The theatre was the Shaftesbury Theatre in Shaftesbury Avenue and was a little walk from the hotel. I still have to see the cinematic adaptation of Rock of Ages.
Stage for Rock of AgesInside the Shaftesbury Theatre
Monday was a little drizzly when we headed out. The mission was to have lunch at Nobu and find Berkeley Square. Call me sentimental but I am a huge Dame Vera Lynn fan. My Nan got me hooked and I really wanted to get of photo of me in Berkeley Square for her. Nobu is just along from Berkeley Square so we got to kill two birds with one stone. R had been in 2008 so he wanted me to go there with him. We arrived early and got our orders and soon after the business lunch brigade started coming in. So many finance conversations going on around us.
Tempura Prawns Nobu LondonSushi and Sashimi Nobu LondonYakitori Nobu LondonInterior Nobu London
After lunch R went back to the hotel and I had a wander around, stumbled upon the centre of hip during the 1960’s, Carnaby Street, got to go try some pretty frocks on, visited the Faberge Boutique, Asprey, Wartski Jewellers, Garrard and walked past the glorious windows of Graff, Moussaieff, Leviev, Solange Azagury-Partridge, and a few other high end jewellery stores. Then it was back to the hotel for a rest before heading out for dinner with some watch friends of R’s at Tamarind (see other post).
Carnaby Street
Tuesday saw us packing again ready for our flight to Zurich. We decided to book a car through the hotel which was a good idea as it was only £60 and there was a bit of traffic on our way out to the airport. The weirdest part of being in London was dusk. Not something we are used to here in Australia, but having light at 10pm was quite strange in a good way.
Pop back to see Around The World Part III: Zurich.
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