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Cooking Across 4 Generations

Using recipes collected from 4 generations of one family

Author

viktoria1969

I grew up in wine and coal country in the Hunter Valley in NSW. Have been a chef for 16 years. Love to travel.

Dinner By Heston Blumenthal, Mandarin Oriental, London

After working out that a trip to The Fat Duck in Bray was not feasible for our one week stay in London, we decided that Heston Blumenthal’s other restaurant, Dinner By Heston, would be a lot easier to get to. Thankfully we booked well in advance (February) and were able to get a reservation. Dinner By Heston is located in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Knightsbridge.

Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Knightsbridge, London
Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Knightsbridge, London

On our visit to Dinner By Heston, the day was spectacular, sun shining, bright blue skies. Not what you expect for a British summer’s day. Our walk to Knightsbridge was very pleasant indeed.

The restaurant is located through the lobby toward the Hyde Park side of the hotel building. Large expanses of glass let in light and afford a great view of Hyde Park.

Reception for Dinner by Heston
Reception for Dinner by Heston

Custom-made porcelain light fixtures modelled on antique jelly moulds are a quirky touch to the walls, vaulted ceilings enhance the height of the rooms and lots of large mirrors, wood, leather and ivory paint is used for walls and furnishings. Floor to ceiling glass separates the diners from the kitchen where the feature is the pulley system used to rotate the spit. Unfortunately I forgot to stop and take a photo of the kitchen.

Interior Dinner By Heston
Interior Dinner By Heston

Dinner By Heston has dishes inspired from historic British gastronomy. Each dish has a date indicating the period in time the original recipe was formulated.

Menus at Dinner by Heston
Menus at Dinner by Heston

Mr. CA4G got a little confused and thought we had been given the dinner menu instead of the lunch menu, until I reminded him that the restaurant was named Dinner. We opted for the 3 course set lunch menu with matching wines (all up £147 approx AUD$256). As there were two choices per course it was just a matter of deciding which of us wanted what more than the other.

Yours truly
Yours truly

Mr CA4G loves snails so he opted for the dressed snails(c.1884), parsley, beetroot, salty fingers and red wine sauce. This was matched with a  Schiopetto, 2010 Pinot Grigio from Collio in Italy.

Dressed snails
Dressed snails

I am not in to snails( they should only be trod on when found in the garden). I chose the Salmagundy (c.1720), smoked tomato, celery, buckler sorrel and lovage. This was matched with Weingut Loimer, 2012 Gruner Veltliner ‘Lois’ from Kamptal in Austria. Amazingly tasty heirloom tomatoes enhanced with a light touch of smoke, a lovely light summer dish.

Salamagundy
Salamagundy

For mains Mr. CA4G ordered something he hasn’t tried before, roasted ray wing & admirals sauce (c. 1826), sea aster, shallots, peas, brown butter and capers. This was matched with Ata Rangi, 2012 Sauvignon Blanc, Martinborough, New Zealand. Sea aster is a plant that grows along the coast line and has edible leaves.

Roasted Ray Wing
Roasted Ray Wing

I opted for roast quail (c.1590) with cabbage, onion and smoked chestnut. This was delicious. The quail was taken of the bone for plating and sat high on the mound of cabbage, onion and chestnut. This was matched with a Casale Dello Sparviero, 2009 Riserva Chianti Classico from Tuscany in Italy.

Roasted quail
Roasted quail

Desserts saw us have a little tiff over who got the Millionaire Tart (c. 1730), crystallised chocolate, with vanilla icecream (so smooth!!). This was served with Domaine de la Tour Vieille, NV Banyuls Reserve from Roussillon in France. The tart was a nice crumbly base with a rich chocolate topping with little ‘gold’ nuggets on top. Very rich and I want more!!

Millionaire Tart
Millionaire Tart

Mr. CA4G lost the battle of the millionaire tart and ordered the Shrewsbury Gooseberry Tansy tart, gooseberry, rose and caraway. This was matched with La Spinetta, 2012 Moscato d’Asti Bricco Quaglia fro Piedmont in Italy. This tart was elegant, light and lovely. The crust from caramelisation was just right and the moscato was the perfect wine to go with such a light dessert.

Shrewsbury Gooseberry  Tansy Tart
Shrewsbury Gooseberry Tansy Tart

A post dessert was also bought out. It usually comes with the coffee but we don’t generally order coffee after a meal, so it came out any way. A little glass cup of dark chocolate ganash with a crisp wafer. Thank goodness we walked back to our hotel.

Post dessert chocolate
Post dessert chocolate

All in all a lovely lunch to go with a perfect English summer day.

I have noticed that Heston has a new book coming out that is based on historic recipes. Might have to put it on the Christmas list.

Truffle Roast Chicken

One final item I prepared using the fresh truffles recently was a roast chicken with truffles. This was another thing I have read about and wanted to do try for some time.

I am not going to specify a size for the chicken, as we are a two person household I only buy a smaller size 12 chicken. This recipe needs to be started the day before you want to cook it, this allows for the truffle to infuse the meat of the chicken.

1 free range organic chicken

20 gr Truffles, sliced (If using a larger bird, use more truffle)

60 g Butter, softened to room temperature

Salt and pepper

Wash your chicken inside and out. Dry with paper towel.

Gently separate the skin of the chicken from the breast meat.

Lay the slices of truffle over the exposed meat.

Form the butter in to two oval shaped pieces and lay on top of the truffles. (Alternatively you can finely grate the truffle into the softened butter and mix together before forming it to place on the chicken.)

Gently settle the skin of the chicken back over the butter/truffle. Truss your chicken with butchers twine.

Place in to baking dish and then cover securely with cling film and leave in fridge over night.

Before
Before

Remove chicken from oven ½ an hour before you want to start cooking it.

Preheat oven to 220C.

Remove the cling wrap and season the chicken with the salt and pepper. Drizzle with a little olive oil, place in oven and cook according to the size of chicken you have used, or until the juices run clear when tested.

After, love how the truffle is visible through the skin
After, love how the truffle is visible through the skin

Serve with your favourite vegetables and some gravy.

You could just use chicken breasts that have the skin on and place the butter under the skin the same way as the whole chicken. Just a quick seal in a fry pan before finishing in the oven would be a good idea.

Mr CA4G takes his own lunch to work so this week he had some rather decadent truffled chicken sandwiches.

Truffle Season

I bring you a service interruption to my recent travel posts. Having had all manner of exotic ingredients during our holiday (think foie gras, exotic mushrooms, bamboo clams, truffles) I was happy to receive an email from Bonnes Truffes letting me know that fresh Australian truffles were in season. I placed an order and eagerly awaited delivery of what Brillat Savarin called ‘diamonds of the kitchen’.

Black Truffle from Bonnes Truffes Southern Highlands NSW
Black Truffle from Bonnes Truffes Southern Highlands NSW
Another angle of the truffle
Another angle of the truffle

Not having encountered a fresh truffle before Mr. CA4G and I realised quite quickly that they are rather pungent. Upon opening the package they were in, Mr. CA4G quickly asked what the stench was, thinking there was something off in the fridge. We had a bit of a laugh.

I also got to use the $60 truffle slicer that I bought two years ago. I knew I would have a use for it one day.

Truffle slicer - GEFU brand
My GEFU truffle slicer

My first plan for using them was scrambled eggs. To do this I needed an airtight container and some eggs. The eggs are placed in the container with the truffle for at least 24 hours. I would recommend a little longer, maybe two or three days. Then you make your scrambled eggs as normal.

Eggs with the truffle in their airtight jar
Eggs with the truffle in their airtight jar

Personally I use about 3 tablespoons of cream for 5 eggs, a little salt and pepper, about 20 grams of butter melted in the pan. Whisk the cream and eggs and then in to the pan and gently stirred with a silicone scraper until they are cooked through.

Cream
Cream
Eggs and cream ready to go
Eggs and cream ready to go
Butter ready to melt
Butter ready to melt
Just about ready
Just about ready

On to some toast and then I finely sliced some truffles over the top.

Truffle meets slicer
Truffle meets slicer
Ready to eat
Ready to eat

Delicious! So good in fact we had it two days in a row.

I also used the truffles for lunch with fresh pasta, a little onion and pancetta sautéed in olive oil, butter and lots of parmesan. I also shaved more truffle over the top. Not the healthiest option but certainly very tasty.

Home made pasta, Pancetta, parmesan and truffle
Home made pasta, Pancetta, parmesan and truffle

A delicious weekend all round.

I have a small piece left some eggs in with it for scrambled eggs on the weekend and another lot of the pasta. Can’t wait!

Union Club, Soho, London

Our second night in London saw us meet friends at a gallery opening for Patrick Morgan in Soho. Great exhibition of many varied works by the artist. The exhibition was held at The House of St. Barnabas Club, a not for profit club that has a charity wing providing hospitality employment opportunities for homeless people.

Interior of House of St. Barnabas
Interior of House of St. Barnabas

After the exhibition our group went for a quick walk down Greek Street to The Union Club. The Union Club is a private members club located in a 270 year old Georgian townhouse. The decor is rich and cosy, blending antique and modern with style and wit to create an effect that is both contemporary and bohemian

Interior The Union Club
Interior The Union Club
Interior The Union Club
Interior The Union Club

The dining room combines wood panelling, crystal chandeliers, open fireplaces and a superb eclectic art collection to create an ambience that is a nice change from most modern minimalist restaurants. The rich glossy red walls give an old world feel.

The menu features organic and sustainably sourced products. There is a great range of old favourites and some modern combinations. Bread is baked daily in house and sometimes they need to do a second lot. Mr. CA4G and I shared an entree of seared scallops, peas and crispy prosciutto.

Scallops, peas and crispy proscuitto
Scallops, peas and crispy proscuitto

I decided to have more peas, this time in the form of a pea and ricotta crespelline with girolles. Got to love having mushrooms that are hard to get in Australia.

Crespelline of peas and ricotta
Crespelline of peas and ricotta

Mr. CA4G loves a burger (seemed to be the most popular dish with the group). The Union burger came with homemade ketchup and rustic fries.

The Union Burger
The Union Burger

Fries and beans were ordered for the whole table. The fries were nice fat hand cut ones served with a homemade mayo.

Beans and chips
Beans and chips

 

Desserts were tempting but we decided to pass and just have a coffee.

Should a member of The Union Club invite you to dinner, jump at the chance to go. There is nothing like dining in an eclectic room.

Locanda Locatelli

Just a quick post without many photos, as photography inside the restaurant is banned. We headed over to the Hyatt Regency for Lunch at Locanda Locatelli as we both love pasta and enjoyed watching Giorgio Locatelli on TV.

Locanda Locatelli is part of the Hyatt Regency Churchill, located at 30 Portman Place, Seymour Street, London, yet feels separate from the hotel. A window box of wild flowers is a softening touch to the stark white and grey exterior.

Exterior Locanda Locatelli
Exterior Locanda Locatelli

The interior was designed by David Collins in light woods and neutral tones, offering up a relaxing atmosphere. The clientele at lunch is very much of the business brigade, but don’t let that put you off.   We did walk past at night and it looked lovely with the soft lighting.

Menu Locanda Locatelli
Menu Locanda Locatelli

The menu is a great selection of Italian delights. After perusing the menu, Mr. CA4G and I both went for pasta. As Mr. CA4G loves his lobster he couldn’t resist, Linguine all’astice (Linguine with lobster, tomato, garlic and chilli), I have wanted to try ‘nduja sausage for a while so my choice was Strozzapreti al pomodoro, `nduja, olive nere e ricotta (Homemade pasta with tomato, spicy salami, black olives, buffalo ricotta), nice and spicy!! I will be keeping an eye out for ‘nduja next time I trek over to the delis in Five Dock.

We did have a quick glance at the dessert menu and were very tempted by the cheese plate but decided to give our bellies a bit of a break.

Me outside Locanda Locatelli
Me outside Locanda Locatelli

We really enjoyed our lunch at Locanda Locatelli and were able to tick off another ‘have to visit’ restaurant. We only have a couple of hundred more to get through LOL.

Hutong, Hong Kong

Landing in Hong Kong on a Friday afternoon found us checking in to our hotel, having a quick siesta and then heading out to stretch our legs and find somewhere for dinner. We settled on a restaurant with a view, Hutong, located on the 28th floor of 1 Peking Building, just behind Heritage 1881.

The view from the second row
The view from the second row

Since our last visit three years ago Hutong has had a change of theme, but ever so slightly. The new theme is ‘old Beijing’. Gone are the bird cages and in are little rickshaw models, along with a large rickshaw at the entrance. The dark woods and antique architectural details that we love are all still there. The lighting is still low, but this allows for greater enjoyment of the nightly light display across the harbour.

Anyone for a ride?
Anyone for a ride?

The menu has changed as well, which is to be expected. For entrees we ordered chili spiced bamboo clams(steeped in Chinese rose wine and chili sauce)), seared scallops topped with pomelo segments.

Chili spiced bamboo clams (steeped in Chinese rose wine and chili sauce)
Chili spiced bamboo clams (steeped in Chinese rose wine and chili sauce)
Scallops with pomelo segments
Scallops with pomelo segments

We then chose two mains that were quite similar in that they both came with pancakes. Double Happiness (roasted suckling pig with Pancakes) and crispy boneless duck. Both were served with traditional pancakes and accompaniments. You may notice in coming posts that we have a thing for duck. No wine this time around, we decided to go with Chinese tea.

Double happiness
Double happiness
Deboned crispy skin duck
Deboned crispy skin duck

For the first time we also went for Chinese traditional desserts and selected Double Decker Dessert Box.  Attractively served in a double bamboo steamer, the box contained: mango glutinous rice rolls coated with shredded coconut, pumpkin pudding with sticky rice, osmanthus flavored jelly with white fungus.   The desserts were quite different to anything we have had before. The pumpkin pudding was nice with the flecks of sticky rice through it, the osmanthus jelly was interesting, but our favourite was the mango pudding.

Double decker dessert box
Double decker dessert box

During a our dinner we had not only the light show from across the harbour but a huge storm came through as well. While most would be put off by that, the rain gave another dimension by hazing out the lights and giving a soft ethereal look to the view. The lasers lights off some of the buildings became a really spectacular sight through the rain.

It's raining, it's pouring, but nobody was snoring with this view
It’s raining, it’s pouring, but nobody was snoring with this view

We are looking forward to visiting Hutong again next time we are in Hong Kong. If you go, book well ahead and request a window seat, as long as you don’t get vertigo LOL.

Brasserie Ruhlmann, Manhattan

 

 

Arriving in New York this year it was, thankfully, not quite as hot as when we went last year. I was able to get my bag rather quickly of the carrousel and straight out to the cabs, where, unexpectedly there was a very short queue. 30 minutes later I arrived at the Waldorf Astoria, met Mr. CA4G, freshened up and then we hit the sidewalks. Always great to walk around a city after 20 hours in a plane.

IMG_1160

 

We were decidedly peckish so really needed to find some where to eat. Our first choice, a restaurant that we went to last year in Villard Mansion, was sadly closed due to renovations to the building.

 

Walking through the Rockefeller Centre we discovered Brasserie Ruhlmann. Named after Émile-Jacques Ruhlmann a legendary French designer, whose concepts and craftsmanship epitomize the glamour and style of the French Art Deco era, Brasserie Ruhlmann pays homage to this early 20th-century icon and the art-and-intellectualism era of the Parisian brasserie.

Dinner-with-Sushi

Headed by respected chef Laurent Tourondel, Brasserie Ruhlmann serves modern versions of dishes that are reminiscent of his French homeland.

We settled on burgers for our dinner. For Mr. CA4G a Black Angus burger topped with gruyere cheese and for myself a lobster and shrimp roll seasoned with a curry mayo. Served simply on wooden boards with paper lined tin cups to hold the chips. Of course a good burger requires a glass of Moet.

IMG_1167

 

Such a joy to be able to sit outside for dinner, especially when you have a lingering sunset and twilight. The first of many great meals during our 4 week trip around the world. Bon Apetite!

Scott’s, London

Walking over to Knightsbridge one day we passed a restaurant that had a name that sounded familiar. It was one that had been written about as a haunt of London’s elite.

Mr. CA4G and I were in need of somewhere for dinner so decided to head over to Scott’s and try it.

Scott's Menu
Scott’s Menu

Located on Mount Street in upmarket Mayfair, it was a short walk from our Marylebone accommodation.  An elegant black and white frontage with large windows is manned by a bowler hatted doorman. A cosy interior in creams and browns is highlighted with stunning lighting, art and mirrors. The clientele tends to be a older money and slightly more relaxed, not try hards at all.

Interior Scott's
Interior Scott’s
Yours truly, upmarket restaurant called for pearls.
Yours truly, upmarket restaurant called for pearls.

Scott’s is big on seafood of all kinds and has a good range of land and air based foods as well. An oyster and champagne bar dominates the centre of the room, with oysters being freshly shucked to order. Scott’s are big on sustainably sourced seafood and organic produce, and make a point of specifying where there produce is caught, raised or grown.

Having  had a good lunch, we decided to only have a main course each and a glass of wine. Mr. CA4G’s favourite John Dory was on the menu served with globe artichokes, anchovies and capers, so he had that.

John Dory
John Dory

I chose Devonshire chicken with foie gras stuffing, mousseron mushrooms and tarragon. Mousseron mushrooms (Scotch Bonnets) were new to me so had to try them, and who can pass up foie gras? My chicken was quite large so I had to palm some off to Mr. CA4G The mushrooms were delicious!

Devonshire chicken
Devonshire chicken

Of course we had to have some chips to go with our meal. We both had a glass of white wine, both were chardonnays and from Burgundy. Mr. CA4G had a Francois Gaunoux 2009 Puligny Montrachet while I went for Domaine de Chaude Ecuelle 2011 Chablis. Having French chardonnay is an interesting experience. The variations are remarkable and show just how much terroir and the winemaker impact the final product. They tend to be a little more nuanced and subtle than some of the in your face Aussie chardonnays. We had several chardonnays from Burgundy on our trip and Mr. CA4G has now become a convert to chardonnay.

After a fabulous meal dessert was tempting but we had to pass. Scott’s is definitely on our list of restaurants to head back to when we go to London again.

Bistro du Sommelier, Paris

Prior to our round the world trip in June and July, I researched places we would like to dine. I was particularly interested in ones that had a good reputation for food and wine matching. In my research I came upon Bistro du Sommelier in Paris. Owner Philippe Faure-Brac was ranked best sommelier in the world in 1992, best sommelier in France in 1988, and young sommelier in 1984.

Located on Boulevard Hausmann in the 8th Arrondisement, it is a short stroll from the Opera, past Les Grand Magasins. The long twilight makes for a pleasant stroll to and from the restaurant.

Bistro Du Sommelier
Bistro Du Sommelier
Bistro du Sommelier
Bistro du Sommelier

Behind the classic red exterior lies a dining room that has a simple rusticity to it. Cream stone walls, art work relating to wine and subtle colours abound so as not to distract from the real reason you are there, the food and wine. There is also a further dining area downstairs in the cellar.

Interior Bistro du Sommelier
Interior Bistro du Sommelier
Interior Bistro du Sommelier
Interior Bistro du Sommelier
Charger plate, Bistro du Sommelier
Charger plate, Bistro du Sommelier

There is the option of an a la carte menu or several degustation options. We decided to have a 5 course degustation with matched wines. Each table gets a slightly different menu and wines. You also have the option to play a little game where they don’t tell you what the wine is when they pour it. You have to guess the wine and region, if you can, you can also guess the vintage. I got three right out of the five. Vermentino and a sweeter style Grenache were my downfalls.

After some delicious house made bread, our first course arrived. Slices of salmon, caviar and crème fraiche. Simple and elegant. Our wine for this course was a 2012 vermentino from Clos Culombu, situated in Corsica. I have only had vermentino once before and that was at Pilu. This wine had us a little confused, it had some characteristics of sauvignon blanc so our first guess for the wine game was wrong. The Clos Culombu went really well with the salmon and caviar.

Salmon, Caviar, creme fraiche
Salmon, Caviar, creme fraiche
Clos Culombu, Vermentino
Clos Culombu, Vermentino

Our second course was a little tartlet with jamon and vegetables. The tart shell was flavoursome and light, and the filling was exceptional. I got the wine that went with this course correct. A chardonnay from Burgundy. Domaine Chevalier Pere & Fils, Ladoix.

Tartlet
Tartlet
Domaine Chevalier, Pere & Fils
Domaine Chevalier, Pere & Fils

Our third course was a simple but very tasty chicken with wild mushrooms, truffles and pommes de terre puree. Surprisingly this was served with a red wine, the earthy characteristics of the mushrooms and truffle were well suited to the wine. A 2002, Cru Bourgeois from Chateau Mayne-Lalande, in the Listrac-Medoc appellation of Bourdeaux. High percentage Cabernet Suavignon(60%) Merlot(30%) with a touch of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc(5% each). This was another that I got right. It made me feel very proud to say that the Cabernet Sauvignon was the predominant grape with Merlot being the other main grape.  I even got that it was a Bourdeaux blend correct.

Chicken, mushroom, truflles, pommes puree
Chicken, mushroom, truflles, pommes puree
Chateau Mayne-Lalande
Chateau Mayne-Lalande

Our fourth course was a nice selection of some great French cheese of which two were deliciously stinky, with the other being a more subtle aroma. The wine for this was a Domaine Duseigneur Par Philippe Faure-Brac, from Laudun in the Cotes Du Rhone. A blend of Grenache(60%) and Syrah(40%).  This wine is a joint collaboration between the owner of Bistro Du Sommelier and the Domaine Duseigneur vineyards. I got this one right too.

Delicious stinky cheese
Delicious stinky cheese
Domaine Duseigneur par Philippe Faure-Brac
Domaine Duseigneur par Philippe Faure-Brac

For our final course was a frozen chocolate confection topped with dark chocolate and nuts. Perfect for the hot weather we were experiencing in Paris at the time. This was also served with a red wine. Now dear readers I am sure you realise that chocolate and red wine are a great match. The wine with this was a fantastic match. A Mas Amiel Vintage 2009 100% Grenache, from the Maury AOC. This wine was sweet and but not overly so. I have since learnt that wines from Maury AOC are generally fortified, so it was a great experience to try a wine style that was quite different. Maury AOC is in the Roussillon wine region which has a bit of Spanish history to it,  being only a few kilometres from the Fance/Spain border, hence Grenache being a predominant grape in the region. Another great dessert wine that you may have heard about from the Roussillon region is Banyuls, also made from Grenache grape.

Chocolate dessert
Chocolate dessert
Mas Amiel, Vin Doux Naturel
Mas Amiel, Vin Doux Naturel

So our fabulous degustation at an end, we enjoyed a twilight stroll through the City of Lights, back to our hotel via La Madeleine, Rue du Faubourg St. Honore, Place Vendome and the Opera. A great way to end a fantastic meal.

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